Vincent Rosati
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Add all of your system spec’s to your profile so we can see what you’re working with.
Have you rebooted?
Vince
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Maybe not the answer you’re looking for, but to “tell the computer to generate X number of objects along Y path, making them smaller and smaller”
Create just the small and big objects and…
Object/Blend with Specified Steps, then Object/Blend/Replace Spine.
Use a 2-point path as the spine, with Bezier curves on both points.Vince
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1 – Generally regarding image quality, it doesn’t matter what tool you use to edit. DV-AVI is an editing format, but it is compressed so that export does equate to 1-generation of loss.
2- Importing into another app will not degrade the image. However, exporting into a compressed format will equate to an additional generation of loss. Exporting as Uncompressed will not cause a loss of visual quality, but it will eat up a huge chunk of disk space. There are visually lossless codecs available that will allow for smaller files.
‘Improving’ digital footage is a very objective process. It depends on what you mean.
3- The ‘Best’ export settings are also subjective. Ideally you should export into the format that you will be using for delivery or archive.
Generally you’ll want to export with 2-Pass VBR with bitrate settings that are the highest that you or your medium are willing to accept.
It’s a good practice to do some compression/export tests with a small 1-minute clip before encoding a large project, using different bitrate settings.I haven’t used a very recent version of Premiere yet, so maybe something has changed, but your project settings should equal the desired encoding format. So if you need two versions, you would have two projects. You would import your ‘final’ project (not he export, but the actual Premiere project file) into this second project.
Do all of your encodes/exports now, while the project is on your drive, before dumping or archiving your source files, so you don’t have to reload your source files at some later time.
Just some ideas.
Vince
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I’m sure there are a bunch of different approaches you could take to this.
Redraw
Create a new layer.
Draw a box that is the correct size.
Ctrl+Drag the object with snapping enabled to duplicate the object at the correct distance.
Then Ctrl+D to repeat the Duplicate operation. This will create one row.
Now you can group the row of boxes and perform the same function to fill the remaining area.An example of Ctrl+D is here…
https://library.creativecow.net/articles/rosati_vincent/radial_patterns.php @time 1:40.If you already have the new boxes drawn you could also use the Window/Align tool to evenly space everything.
Pathfinder
Select all of the squares, then Object/Path/Outline Stroke.
Select All and Ungroup (as many times as necessary).
Select the ‘path’ and Select/Same/Fill Color and Pathfinder/Add to combine all of the ‘strokes’ into one object.
Select a fill and Select/Same/Fill Color then Object/Compound Path/Make to combine all of the fills into one object.
Select the fill and Object/Arrange/Bring To Front so the fill is on top of the ‘strokes’.
Now select everything and Pathfinder/Minus Back.“does not seem to remain to scale”
Edit/Preferences/General/Scale Strokes & Effects.Just some ideas.
Vince
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To merge two connected objects you could select both and use Window/Pathfinder: Add…
If they are not connected and they are not in groups you could select both and Object/Compound Path/Make.
Vince
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Usually that type of thing is better done in Photoshop.
But to do something like that In Illustrator, you could use the rectangle tool to draw a box, then apply a Brush to the stroke, from the Brush Palette.
There are a bunch of brush libraries in the drop-down menu.
You would probably also have to Object/Expand to match the color.Or, you could Live Trace an actual photo that has the rough edge that you are looking for, or perhaps a scan of your own brush strokes.
Just a few ideas.
Vince
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Creating rules for web is easier in Photoshop.
Sharp Edge Objects
In Illustrator you are better off making 1px rules with the Rectangle Tool. Select the tool then click on the artboard so you can enter the precise dimensions.
When AI draws the shape on the artboard it will probably not be in the correct position, viewable in the Info Palette.*Note: To do this, you will need to use both the Info Palette and the Transform Palette.
If you have a 1pt rule, and you want it to rasterize with crisp edges you need to:
1 – Know that the width of the stroke extends to the sides (or top & bottom) of the point coordinates. Assuming that you have not repositioned the center-point.
2 – Position the rule so the coordinates are exactly in between the area that you intend to cover.You should make sure to go to File/Doc. Setup and set the Units to Pixels.
Now when you click in the object and look at the coordinates in the Info Palette you can see exactly where it is positioned. If the object was hand-drawn it is not likely to be positioned properly for a crisp raster.If it’s a horizontal rule that is 1px thick (or any odd number), the Y-Coordinate must be at a .5 position, half-way in between a pixel, in a document set to use Pixels as the Unit of Measure.
So, if your 1pt. rule is at Y:480px, use the Transform tool to set the Y-Coordinate to Y:480.5px.If it’s a 2px rule, or any even number, you would set the coordinate to a whole number, like 480px.
Rules That Are Less Than 1px Thick
As for rules that are less that 1px in thickness, generally speaking, a computer monitor can’t draw raster information that is less than 1 pixel. So if you are rasterizing a solid black rule that is less than 1px thick, the line will interpret as a shade of grey.It’s almost confusing me to read this, so I can only hope that this helps you. But, it does work.
Good luck.Vince
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These show all of the techniques you will need.
However since the waves are repeating pattern, you could probably start with a straight path and apply Effect/Distort…/Zig-Zag, Smooth…After you Object/Path/Outline Stroke the shaped path, you could offset a copy of the expanded shape and use Pathfinder/Subtract Back to create the lighter colored/front shapes to create the shading.
Vince
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Technically, I don’t have the answer to your question – “does the motion effect need a special rendring?”
It does need to render.
You could pre-render the timeline by pressing Enter, but I’m not sure how well that would work in your workflow.
I would export your movie from Premiere to a file.
At least, as an uncompressed movie. Make sure to set Video/Data Rate/Recompress: to Always, Export Movie dialogue box. That will render your effect.
Ideally you cold export as an Encore compliant file so you’re in full control of the encode.Vince
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Ann is right of course, at every step in the process there are many things that you can do wrong/right/better.
Menu buttons can target chapter markers, just like a commercial feature DVD.
Timelines have End Actions, so if you want to each video’s end action to return to the title menu, they should be individual videos/timelines.So, in Premiere you can nest your completed video sequence into 8 different sequences, trim each to the appropriate length, then export each into it’s own file.
Vince
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