Don Bloom
Forum Replies Created
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you can use the SNAP tool-this will put the clips tail to head with no dissolve.
As for a format that DVDA will take without re-rendering just render to MPG2 and AC3(audio) in the first place from the Vegas timeline.
Figure the bitrate based on the total time of the project using AC3 audio render (name both the same except for the extensions-IE mymovie.MPG,mymovie.AC3, open DVDA, drag into project prepare burn done!
Don -
My workflow is CUT first then COLOR. Since you have presets you can do a couple of things. One is put camera 1 footage on track 1 and cam 2 footage on track 2. Then put your CC presets onto TRACK level. The other thing is put your CC into the clips in the MEDIA BIN. Either one should take care of it.
Don
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Place the cursor where you want to ‘split’ the clip. Press “S” Done!
Don -
if you mean the clips that are there go to the first one right click choose “select all events to the end” and hit delete.
If you meant the timeline itself there is no reason to try to delete it as the job should stop at the end of the last clip unless way down the line there’s a clip or marker lurking there which is the reason to do the first thing and then use control+right arrow to see if the cursor goes to a marker hiding out there on you.Don
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AVI is just a wrapper and the codec may be something that’s not being read by Vegas. There is a free download called G-Spot that will sniff thru the AVI and tell you the COdec that it actually is. Install the proper codec and you’re all set.
Of course Mikes way works just fine as well and is even simpler.Don
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Hmmm, humor me 😉
Go to the capture program of Vegas,under OPTIONS goto PREFERENCES then goto CAPTURE. Look and see if the Capture Audio checkbox is ticked.
You shouldn’t have to capture the taped audio thru the computer mic. Check the prefs and let us know.Don
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no plugin needed. Just use keyframes in the tileline in the Pan/Crop window and to do the pull out simply set a keyframe where you need it and then resize the image.
Play around with it a bit, you can’t hurt anything and I think you’ll find what you need in the pan/crop window woth keyframes.
Don
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Yes. At the beginning of the event, in the P/C window, set your point you want the zoom to be at, then move down the timeline in the P/C window and click in a new keyframe by ‘right clicking’ and setting to ‘restore’. This will set the pan/crop back to the original size of the event.
HTHs
Don -
I have encourtered this a couple of times as well. The only way I could fix it was to find silent areas split the audio track and adjust as needed. It was a PITA but luckily there were enough areas of silence that I could split the track and move it.
Don
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when I was a working still photographer I had2 basic backrounds. Black and pure white. This way I could adjust lighting to get lots of shades and grades inbetween.
I found black backround paper to be a pure black (at least it used to be 25 years ago). Light from the side and as Mike stated keep the light off the backround. You migh even consider using a small fill from the back high and angeled down to seperate hair and outline the subject. You might even need 2 one per side set at about a 45 degree angle from the subject. That will help seperate the subject from the backround but the first thing is to get the subject off the backround no less than 5 or 6 feet. Then set your key light almost 90 degrees to the side of the subject. Set you fill about 45 to 60 degrees on the other side of the subject and if need be use something small and weak at the camera to use as a catch light (puts a little sparkle in the eyes and helps to define the nose). Keep the lighting off the backround and look at it thru a monitor to see what you get. Adjust as necessary. IIRC the seamless paper backround paper comes in 12 foot rolls. Should be enough width but you canalways hang 2 pieces and overlap the seam a couple of inches an tape it together from the back. Used to do it all the time.
TEST TEST TEST before the shoot.
Don