[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

These reveal some of the basics.

https://www.kenstone.net/fcp_homepage/basic_ps.html

https://www.geniusdv.com/photoshop-for-video.php

https://www.geniusdv.com/photoshop%20final%20cut%20pro.php

And since NTSC/PAL can’t reproduce the resolution of a computer,
its easily possible to create graphics that a too complex to read well on video.

Gaussian Blur can reduce “image buzz”.
Set it to a low number (between .25 to 2.5 is a good start).

It is essential when attempting to monitor the QUALITY of images in FCP that you use an external NTSC VIDEO Monitor (or PAL, if that’s where you are).
Especially after you render…
the Canvas is never high-quality (by design) and should not be used to make determinations of image quality of clips or graphics.

VERY IMPORTANT:

If you position the graphics, make SURE the VERTICAL setting for each KEY-FRAME (start, stop or hold) is always a EVEN INTEGER. (examples: 4, not 3 / -144, not -143.27 / 336, not 335.62)

I sometimes forget to check this and I can end up with images that look fuzzy when in-position.

This info applies to re-positioning ANYTHING on the Timeline: moving video, freeze-frames, internally-generated titles, and imported graphics.

It can be quite detrimental to the quality of your final output to not double-check this every time you reposition and/or re-size an image.

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

WHICH text generator did you use?

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

“Sync-slippage” can happen during some longer captures.

Tapes recorded on certain camcorders from Canon have been somewhat more problematic but it also can happen with other brands of cameras as well.

To reduce the problem on capture, break your captures into sections no longer than about 10 minutes each.

You can then “reconstruct” the full tape’s recording (or any longer takes) quickly if you need to.
Mark (and log) your first clip to End (Out-point) about 10 minutes or less from its In-point.
Continue to mark (and log) your clips this way throughout the rest of the tape.
Just make sure the In-points of the subsequent clips are EXACTLY ONE FRAME LATER than the Out-points of the previous clips.

You can do all this while actually scanning the tape(s) or just by inputting arbitrary TC numbers, logging them… then use Batch Capture to bring in all of your clips.

Its very easy to then “reconstruct” the shorter clips back to any “continuous” length you want on the timeline by just “clicking” them on in order.
EVEN FASTER… select ALL successive clips at once in the browser (with the browser column-order set to “Media Start” highlight all clips) and drop them, all at once, on the timeline… they’ll all pop up in continuous order.

Also read this link:
https://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=58640
It contains more “sync-loss” info.

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

OK, I don’t want to belabor this (well, yes I do!)

“iStabilize” is an AMAZING image stabilizer and it costs $59.

(Yes, that’s one dollar less than $60.)

I’ve used it to save footage I took from a 50-foot cherry-picker arm’s basket in a high wind.

Click on the following link and view the demos and THEN we can talk “price-to-performance” value.

https://www.pixlock.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=blogsection&id=7&Itemid=113

Pretty cool demo’s too!

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

First I said to record the “live session” to tape to avoid the situation he found himself in.

Then YOU said…

[Ken Pugh] “This is true, but I think he was hoping to avoid the expense of an HD recorder. “

Then, I asked what he was “shooting with” and YOU said…

[Ken Pugh] “Errr, an HD Camera? We digress. “

Now, does anyone else here see my confusion?

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

[Ken Pugh] “This is true, but I think he was hoping to avoid the expense of an HD recorder.”

I’m lost.

What was he “shooting” the LIVE HD images with?

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

Did you try ‘Title 3D”?

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

I record “S” into my UWV-1800, but I feed the composite out (from the DV source) to the “Ref. Video” input at the same time.

If I don’t (or try to use “house burst” with the 1800 while feeding from my “independent” (not synced) DV output to the 1800, the picture “rolls down” during the dub.

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

Nope. Sorry.

I never attempt to caputure “live” for this reason.

I record it to tape, then store it.

That way all my hard work is SAVED on a timecoded tape.

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

[Chris Poisson] “istabilize is good.”

Ditto.

Its amazing (and MUCH cheaper than $500).

(OTOH, Shake is good for much MORE than just this, however.)