Forum Replies Created

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  • [Chris Smith] “As far as 3D, you may not NEED it, but a 3D/2D pipeline can take your work to quite another level.”

    … especially if you want to make ribbons ‘n’ stuff.

    Steve 🙂

  • Steve Roberts

    August 27, 2005 at 11:20 am in reply to: Using a touch screen with after effects

    The original poster is talking about a Wacom Cintiq with stylus, right?

    If so, I hear that you can get used to the slight offset between stylus tip and cursor … but for fine work, I might prefer a regular tablet and stylus because I’d be looking at one point, not two (the cursor and pen tip).

    my 2 cents,
    Steve

  • Steve Roberts

    August 26, 2005 at 7:41 pm in reply to: Furnace or Twixtor?

    I believe Twixtor has a demo — download it and try it on your footage.

    Steve

  • Steve Roberts

    August 26, 2005 at 7:40 pm in reply to: How to put text into a scene?

    If you have the Pro version, you can apply effect>distort>displacement map to the text layer, using the background layer as the displacement map.

    Beware though> this sort of effect uses brightness values to displace the text’s shape. If it floats over, say, an image of a cylinder that has no shading to it, the text will not displace since there is no change to the lightness values of the cylinder.

    Hope that helps,
    Steve

  • Steve Roberts

    August 26, 2005 at 4:24 pm in reply to: AAF from Final Cut Pro 5.0

    I think we’re talking FCP5-to-AE6.5 …?

    Maybe Automatic Duck?

    Steve

  • Steve Roberts

    August 26, 2005 at 2:55 pm in reply to: loss of resolution when importing psd stills

    Your composition’s size is related to the playback device. DVD playback? Hard Drive playback? Read on.

    Regarding scanning, here’s a post from a “scanning stills” thread earlier:

    The dpi figure is the intermediary between the real world and the digital world. When scanning anything, the higher the dpi, the more pixels will exist in the digital image.

    2″x3″ image scanned at 72dpi yields a 144×216 pixel digital image.
    2″x3″ image scanned at 300 dpi yields a 600×900 pixel digital image.

    Start with your TV frame size. Often 720×540.
    Determine how much of each image will fill that frame. If you don’t want to zoom in, then you want to scan your image so it ends up as 720×540. If, however, you want to zoom in so half the image fills the TV frame, scan at a dpi that will give you a digital image which is about twice the size as the TV frame. With a print, you would measure the zoomed-in area in inches, then find a dpi which would give you the TV frame size for that little area. For example:

    10″x8″ photo, fill 720×540 frame:
    720/10 = 72 dpi, 540/8 = 67.5 dpi approx. Pick larger dpi.

    10″x8″ photo, zoom into area 4″x3″ to fill 720×540 frame:
    720/4 = 180 dpi, 540/3 = 180 dpi.

    Your mileage may vary, but for DV or DVD playback in North America, many people work in a 720×540 comp, then drop that into a 720×480 DV preset comp for rendering. I work in 720×480 and use pixel aspect ratio correction.

    If you thought this was going to be fast and simple … welcome to After Effects! 🙂

    Hope that helps,
    Steve

  • Steve Roberts

    August 26, 2005 at 1:27 pm in reply to: Is there such a thing as too much RAM?

    Yes. 2 GB.

    It will change when Adobe recodes AE for the new 64-bit Operating Systems. It’s bound to happen sometime — when, I don’t know.

    Steve

  • Steve Roberts

    August 26, 2005 at 12:11 am in reply to: Flipping an object horizontally within a comp

    If you also need to scale the thing up or down as well, try doing the flop using effect>distort>transform, making the horizontal scale negative 100 there.

    Steve

  • Steve Roberts

    August 25, 2005 at 10:55 pm in reply to: 16 X 9 export

    DV and DV widescreen appear different because the pixels are not the same width.

    Read this article by Rick Gerard for more info.

    Steve

  • Steve Roberts

    August 25, 2005 at 9:34 pm in reply to: Drop shadow in specific Layers

    You could try duping the layer, then applying drop shadow as “shadow only” to the dupe. Then you add the layer on which the shadow falls, and dupe that. Use the dupe as the alpha matte for the shadow-only layer. Four layers instead of two.

    You might consider making the layers 3D and adding a light, and set the shadow-receiving layer to receive shadows, and the other to cast shadows. 2 layers and a light instead of four … and more control over the shadow.

    Steve

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