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BEFORE you change the length of the clip.

Select (highlight) the clip (don’t double-click it).
Hit “Apple-C” (Copy).

Change the length of the clip.

Select (highlight) the clip (don’t double-click it).
Hit “Option-V” (Paste Attributes)

When dialog box opens, choose the attributes you want to transfer and make sure “Scale Attribute Times” is selected.

This will “stretch out” the timings of the key-frames to fit the new longer clip length.

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Best way to have have these noises is to not RECORD them in the first place.

In feature films (and much network TV), if the audio can’t be recorded cleanly under “live” conditions, it is REPLACED by re-recording the actors speaking the same lines in a quiet studio (ADR).

But, if you NEED to use location sound, you should have a professional audio operator mic it properly.
AND, let the audio pro have lots of input in your choice of locations, and whether or not a take is “good” based on the audio track as well as the video.

There are various noise reducing filters, Bias SoundSoap 2 (about $200) is one, that can help remove CONTINUOUS hum or buzz. It is less helpful if the noise in NON-continuous and/or at a frequency that is close to that of your dialog.

An audio Expander (filter or hardware) can help drop background noises to a somewhat lower level, but if not used precisely, can cause the audio to PUMP up and down in level and actually sound worse than before it was expanded.

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[Raafi Rivero] “I’m wondering if this is a drive issue — using firewire LaCie’s — as in maybe the drive/system is having problems pulling the footage fast enough from the drives and threading it together properly. I also have my sequences set to unlimited RT.”

Sounds about right to me, RR.

Firewire drives are not officially “recognized” by Apple for video editing, even in DV25.
You should be using an internal HD or even a RAID for DV50.

DV50 puts much MORE demands on the drives and FW bus.

Have you RENDERED all of your effects?
Dissolves are certainly effects and all effects SHOULD BE RENDERED for them to play smoothly.

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Unless you somehow took a graphic “off-line” from your FCP project (You would have been asked if you wanted to “Re-connect”) the software should only reference the original file from where you imported it.

If you MOVE any original file that you once imported into FCP (move it onto new disk or even a different folder) FCP will “lose connection” to it and ask if you want to “find” it and “Re-connect” to it.

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[Kiko Maniko] “I have a JVC HRDVS3U mini-DV deck, and I had it serviced at an authorized tech to make sure it wasn’t the deck. It wasn’t — it played smoothly on their editing software.”

OK.

But what about your SOURCE material?

Have you tried playing the tape in the camcorder it was shot on (connected to FCP with FW)?

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I don’t think we know what kind of gear you have.

How is the deck CONTROL connected to the Mac?
How are the deck’s VIDEO and AUDIO INPUTs connected from the Mac?

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Its amazing what you can find on Google.

There is actually a “PL-259” website (sort of).

https://www.pl-259.com/page1.html

There is every kind of adapter that goes to and from this kind of connector.

Good prices, too!

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Just stop on a frame with little or no motion.

Export it.

I do this all the time.

(BTW, you can de-interlace any image in Photoshop using the “Video” filter.

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Well, you can’t fit 90 minutes of even CD AUDIO onto a CD.

You can’t expect to cram 90 minutes of high-quality video AND audio on the same medium.

You can burn a very high quality DVD of 90 minutes of material,
but you must suffer with a small-sized, low-resolution images, ragged motion and reduced-quality audio if you want to fit the CD maximums.

Here’s a link on how to export small QT movies from FCP video:

https://www.kenstone.net/fcp_homepage/qt_movies_from_fcp.html

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[chrisusvi] “My guess is that there wasn’t a polarizing filter that was used to cut down on the glare.”

Actually, you’d want to use a “neutral density” filter.

[chrisusvi] “Is there a filter within FCP4.5HD or the Boris Red library that would help correct this problem?”

Sure.
Use the “3 Way Color Corrector” (3WCC) filter.

Add the 3WCC to the clip and adjust the White level and the Mid level down slightly (and maybe increase the Black level a little, if needed).

Fine tune these settings until the image regains some of its detail in the washed-out areas.