[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

Yes, it will do exactly as much good as doing it in the camcorder (which to me is, “Not much good.”)

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

Well, there are these:

https://www.digitalmediatraining.com/products/canon/

https://www.filmwareproducts.com/UltimateGuide/UG-GL2.html

Google is very powerful.

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

[Ruby Gold] “Does it have anything to do with the camera needing cleaning or anything like that?”

You might want to have the camcorders’ heads “wet-cleaned” professionally.

BTW, what brand of tape are you using?

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

I have had GREAT luck buying used miniDV “home video” camcorders and using them as spare “decks” and A-to-D-to-A video/audio converter “boxes”. I have bought MANY of these little gems at local Pawn Shops for UNDER $175 each (some for $99). The transfer quality in and out matches a deck, and the video/audio output (they all have S-Video outs) monitors great!
AND… If you choose a SONY or PANASONIC camcorder (except for the earliest-built versions of the Sony VX1000), those two brands will ALSO playback perfectly any DVCAM-recorded mini DV tapes as well as DV SP and DV LP (yikes!).

NOTE:
Sorry to say that Canon is rather notorious for (sometimes) creating a camcorder that has a “unique” head-alignment compared to another camcorder. (This shows up as blocky video dropouts and sporadic audio silences as you attempt to play one camera’s tape on another unit.)

When shopping LOCALLY (which you might want to consider) for a used “player/recorder” camcorder, I always bring along a miniDV that was recorded on my own camera. I can then play MY tape on any other unit I’m considering and see if the video/audio plays well. If so, I will then RECORD some footage shooting with the new/used little camera and see how THAT footage looks.
Maybe I’ve been lucky, but I have yet to find a non-working non-compatible “cheapy” camcorder… and if the price is “too good to pass up”… I offer it a new home.

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

If you’ll check again, I said SLIVER, not SILVER.

Sliver means a tiny slice of video (one that would fit inside the “trail” left by the water bead as it slides along.

Yes, off-set would be the clean video moved to the left or right a few pixels the way “real” images get “off-set” when you view them through water.

The rest of this (like trying to DESCRIBE IN PRINT how to TIE A SHOELACE) is best left for YOUR imagination and experimentation.

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

[Joe Murray] “The FCP one may be acceptable but looks very amateurish.”

[Joe Murray] “not academy leader but a slate that counts down from 30 seconds and cuts to black
at 3.”

I don’t see how these two of your statements match up.

The FCP coundown is 10 seconds.
If you need 30 (?!) seconds why did you say the FCP one is acceptable?

Except in a satellite down-link or network cuing situation (in which cases the countdown is supplied by the SENDER, not on the actual tape) I’ve never seen the need for a 30 second pre-roll.

(Or did you really mean 10 second?)

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

To be more specific-
Step 1: File> Export> Using QuickTime Conversion… “Save” window appears
Step 2: Format> Still Image
Step 3: Options… > Format: (choose PNG, PICT or Photoshop) > OK
Step 4: Name your image, Set location (disk, folder, desktop) for your new still. > Save

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

Just use the next frame or previous frame to mask out the drops.

Or better yet, go here-

https://www.digital-heaven.co.uk/indexflash.htm

-and check out the DH_Dropout filter (there’s a demo movie).

It costs $10 US.

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

This question was posted on (at least) two forums and took half a day to communicate.

Google takes a fraction of a second to locate hundreds (if not thousands) of relevant sites.

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

Here’s a start:

https://www.google.com/search?q=audio+edit+macintosh