Russell Lasson
Forum Replies Created
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I haven’t tried it, but chances are your footage is going to be choppy because of how FCP will try to adjust the frame rate.
Compressor has some conversion settings in it, but I haven’t had much success with it.
You might try Natress Standards Conversion.
https://nattress.com/Products/standardsconversion/standardsconversion.htm
-Russ
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Do a quick test on a DVD player and see if it is acceptable. Niether one of the displays is true 720P HD. A good SDDVD should look acceptable and is by far the easiest solution.
As I said, just do a quick test DVD and see if it will work or if you need to figure something else out.
-Russ
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Sounds like a good option to me.
-Russ
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We do a lot of software upconverting in After Effects or Shake. In either one you can up convert it and add a 2:3 pulldown to convert 23.98 to 60i so it will work for you.
There are also come capture cards that will crossconvert between 720p and 1080i and they look great!
-Russ
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Do you have any DV camera around still? Many DV cameras will play DV timelines out firewire to a TV. It’s not a pro monitor solution, but it could really help you figure out the the heck is happening.
Just as a note, panning photos and doing speed changes often look horrible in FCP in our pro set up too. We also rely on After Effects or Shake for these types of things. As far as your dissolves go, I don’t have a clue what would be causing those to gitter.
-Russ
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You might download a demo of Nattress Standards Conversion and see if it will do what you want it to do. I just remembered it and thought it might be worth a shot for you.
https://www.nattress.com/Products/standardsconversion/standardsconversion.htm
-Russ
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Editing with clips that have different frame rates can’t be ignored. You’re going to have to deal with it or you will have jumpy footage.
One option is to use After Effects to convert all of your 23.98 to 29.97 using a 2:3 pulldown. Using a 2:3 pulldown is about the only good way to convert 23.98 to 29.97. Don’t use compressor because it will probably just duplicate every 4th frame which can make the footage look jumpy or look like it is studdering.
Another option is to use Nattress Standards Converter to convert either your 23.98 footage to 29.97 or the other way around. I haven’t tried using this but it looks promising.
https://www.nattress.com/Products/standardsconversion/standardsconversion.htm
For just editing though, if you have a fast computer, while it can still be a little bit of a pain, it’s not horrible to have to render the footage and then once picture is locked, convert only the footage that you need to convert.
-Russ
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Without using something like After Effects, your probably right. My original comment was just that with more forsight, editing at 23.98 probably would have been much easier to deal with. (Though you’ve pointed out it wasn’t an option for you.)
-Russ
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Best of luck with the rest of the project!
-Russ
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My theory is edit at what it was shot at. If it is 24p then edit 24p. When you make a master tape, using firewire or a capture card, you can add in a standard 2:3 pulldown then. If you go to DVD or web, then you don’t have interlacing issues when you try to compress it because you can just use the native 23.98 file that is progressive (plus you’ll save space because of having fewer frames.)
So sure, you might be able to pull a key off of 29.97 with a 2:3 pulldown on it, but why when your native file is 23.98? I’d sure like to make a decision up front that takes a little more time than having to go back when I’m trying to deliver the show and have to redo something.
Yes, you can remove the 24PA over firewire as you digitize. 24P needs to go through Cinema Tools or an enabled capture card (kona, decklink.)
That’s just my opinion of the safe way to do things.
-Russ