Michael Sacci
1
COW Coin
Forum Replies Created
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I don’t know, I have not had much luck with the IoHD, I don’t use it that often and it always seems to be flaky on me.
I’m going to move this to the AJA Io forum because I’m having a new issue.
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I would NEVER shoot letterbox, both cameras are 16:9, shoot that and in the end if you want to letterbox the footage you can without a problem, but if you letterbox the footage on record you cannot get a 16:9 DVD without losing quality.
As for the cameras, time to break out the users manuals to fine the highest common denominator.
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I think what are worth there wait in gold, are the books. THere are 3 for FCP6, first 2 are how to use FCP and the last one is editing theory. I think every one FCP user should get at least the first 2 books (would reduce the number of post on the Cow by 50%). These books are available on https://www.peachpit.com/store/browse.aspx?st=60884 and Amazon and you can normally save 30-35% off retail, which puts them under $35 each. These are the books for the classes.
Them classes are as good as the effort you put into them. Are they a good value, yes, especially if someone else is paying for them (as well as the expensive). But you can get all you get out of the classes by reading and studying the books by yourself. But some people learn better in a classroom and being able to get around the software can make it all worth it.
One thing to remember a test simple shows what you knew in the past, not what you know now. If you don’t use the program on a regular basis afterwards most of the knowledge is lost, even if you become “Apple Certified”
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YOu may want to post a still from the footage. But if the grain is in the footage, and I’m guessing the footage is still a little dark, there is not too much you can do to get rid of it, a little softening (slight blur) helps to reduce the effect. No magic plug in.
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I think it is just too much to ask from the laptop to add the pull down. If I turn off Video out footage plays back fine. Or if I make the video out 1080psf 23.98 it plays with video out but then I get a smooth down convert. Or do I just have settings all mixed up.
Right now I put the movie on a 1080i 29.97 timeline, render and it plays back okay.
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[curtis anders] “WD 250 external HD” this would be my first thought.
Need to know how many streams and what codec you are using. An external FW is probably only going to let you do a 2-3 of DV video stream at best.
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[Sean McLeod] “and I do like the blue flares”they reminded me of the old days with the DVX and anamorphic adapter.
Cool video, slo-mo really worked for the video.
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Sony’s J30 (?) had firewire, they are play only decks, I didn’t know they were DV only, learn something everyday.
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You can pull UC 10 bit SD from a FIrewire 800 drive that has 2 drives stripped okay but it is at its limit. If you are doing any composition of layers it is hard to pull through. You are looking at just under 200 GB of space.
DV is not the end of the world but I would never use it if the footage was shoot on DBeta, why throw away all that infomatiion. Going from DV to DVD is not the best.
One compromise is to use DVCPro50 instead of UC (50GB). It is much easier on the drives and it will hold up much better than DV(25). DVCPro50 is only 8-BIt though.
If you have the footage captured as 10-Bit UC and it is taxing on your drives you could always convert the footage to DVCPro50. You can go down without a problem so this is the safest way to go.
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If my videos are 16:9 I use 16:9 menus, 4:3 menus on a WS TV look stupid to me. There is a way to create 2 versions and then you tell which menu to go to based on the DVD Players setting for TV type.
The only time I have seen an overlay problem is when I use a motion menu that was not flagged for 16:9 on encode and then I make it 16:9 Letterbox or Pan and Scan within DVDSP. if I reencode the menu video correctly this problem goes away.