Michael Sacci
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COW Coin
Forum Replies Created
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That is not my favorite DVD authoring article. I don’t like anything that leads a person to encode with DVDSP.
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If you do not have an external monitor in your FCP setup you have never seen your footage.
DV footage has to be prepared well to be encoded well, you have to color correct it, the chroma needs to be within broadcast limits, especially Reds. Reds will always pixelate. If your footage is noise it is even harder to get a clean encode, and shooting with squeeze mode will give you noisy video because it is electronically zoom into the image. Also did you use gain when shooting.
DV is also hard to get clean text. One of the best ways to improve the quality is to Export with Compressor from the FCP timeline, this will bypass the DV compression on your text. If you are under 90 minutes you can use CBR encoding set to 6 Mbps and that should give you the best result possible.
[Andy Snyder] ” I have tried to output it many different ways and am having no success. Any tips on the best way to output for DVD from FCP for use with DVD studio?”
Sorry to sound harsh but that is not useful at all, you need to give specifics on what you did. -
This is really bad forum etiquette, you started a totally different question on another persons topic, why didn’t you just start a topic, or even better do a search for layer break point in this forum.
You need to be putting the chapter markers around the middle of the DVD, you calculate it by run time, but you need to note what order the videos fallen in the VTS folders. Once you have done this you need to do a Build, then you need to start the format and look for valid layer breaks in that dialog box, you can cancel out of that and redefine where you want the layer break once you know the range.
This is one of the features that DVDSP is totally lacking.
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WOW so many time wrong with what you are doing. You are making a PAL SD version STOP that and through away anything you have from that process.
Just Export a self contained movie with Current Settings (don’t worry about the size of the file, take that file into Compressor and use a m2v preset, if you tell me what your TRT is I can give you exact settings but I’m going to guess that your movie is about 90 minutes.
NTSC, 29.97 and make sure it is set to UPPER dominance.
Change the encode settings to CBR at 6 Mbps
Do not turn on Frame Control.You need to encode the audio as ac3 also.
Working with HDV is a slow process but this will be the fastest.
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Do you mean DVX100B (SD camera) and maybe a HVX200 (P2 camera)?
What video format do you plan to shoot and what aspect ratio do you what to have?
On the DVX100, squeeze is an electronic 16:9 anamorphic image, which means the camera is doing the scaling electronically since it is not coming from the sensor that way.
Guess taking a guess since you have not provided all the info needed.
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Log and Transfer is the way that it is done if you have FCP. Other NLE handle P2 footage differently. The other person will also need DVCProHD codec or whatever you shoot the footage as. this is not a common codec.
Make Ref Movie is for when you shoot as QuickTime and a Ref file needs to original files to play, it makes a playable clip of the entire shoot out of the shorter segments. Does not apply here.
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Frames rates (VFR) are for 720P only, if in Recording Setup you set the Record Format to anything other than a 720P, the Frame Rate in Scene File is BLUE, you cannot change it.
For over and under cranking Scene File: Frame Rate and Recording Setup: Record Format work together.
The site is confusing and yes you are right the site does say that each look should have the difference frame rate settings but they don’t, all are set to default. You can easily change this in any text app. Change Default to the frame rate in the name.
But personally I think automatic frame rate changes is dangerous but if you use VFR a lot I guess it would be very handy.
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What resolution are the images? What scaling is going on in the Motion tab?
Try saving the images as tiffs or pngs.
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Sounds like the install didn’t go through. While you can install over apps, you shouldn’t. When ever possible you should wide the HD, do a fresh install of everything. But understand that is often very hard to do. I would always recommend a total uninstall of FCS before any new install (or upgrade) this is not something you can do manually, you need and app. Link below to a free app (check out their other stuff, a must have for any user)
https://www.digitalrebellion.com/fcs_remover.htmthere are tons of post on the best practices from installing/upgrading, either Shane Ross or David Weiss has the best instructions to date if you want to go looking.
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like hell they do!