Jon Zanone
Forum Replies Created
-
I just did a little more research – according to Avid’s supported devices list (https://www.avid.com/content/8927/SUPPORTED%20DEVICES%20FOR%20AVID%20EDITOR%20PRODUCTS.pdf), It looks like the 1200 is the only deck of the two supported, and it only supports certain systems. And, it looks like neither of these decks are supported on Newcutter…
It doesn’t mean the 1400 won’t work, it means Avid hasn’t tested it. There are some pretty specific menu settings to, so make sure to follow them.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news…
Jon
“The Almighty tells me He can get me out of this mess. But He’s pretty sure you’re F%$#*D!”
-
I think I understand you:
-You are controlling the Panasonic deck via rs422, and using the 70 (sorry about the confusion there!) to convert to SD and sending out via firewire. This is happening simultaneously.
I think (not sure – this is a unique solution!) your problem will be trying to select firewire as your input. Avid will expect to use the control protocols imbedded in the FW signal. The only way I see around this is to either a) take an analog signal from the 170 into the Avid (and you’d need Mojo – I’m not familiar with the ingest of your system) or tell Avid to disregard TC (which doesn’t sound like and option since you are offlining this)…
Does the Pannie deck have FW out? Have you checked the menus? Maybe the deck has a software HD/SD converter? If you have the book (you can usually download the manual from Panasonic website) it should have a pretty good menu section… (I reseached the 1400 on Pannie’s website, and found this statement in the overview section: “Built-in up/down/cross converter for playing back DVCPRO 50/DVCPRO/DV/DVCAM tapes and for outputting a converted HD signal”. Sounds like you might not even need the 70!….)
One final caveat about rs422 machine control – you must have a serial/rs422 converter to get the macine control to work. Do a google on macine control and rosetta stone – I forget the company’s name, but it is a required piece to make this work
“The Almighty tells me He can get me out of this mess. But He’s pretty sure you’re F%$#*D!”
-
As one of the forum moderators…
(cue thunder)
Actually, welcome. As Promoboy said, it’s always nice to hear how suggestions worked (and even better if you found a different path from the suggested ones). I personally don’t know everything, and it’s nice to hear the problem-solving thought process.
Again, thanks for stopping by – we’ll all try to help as much as we can!
Jon
-
Any place that sells consumbles for the TV/Film industry will have rolls of 85N (Denver is the closest to me – I use Film/Video, and there’s Barbizon, CEAVCO… Nationally there’s Mole.com). Get something with a lot of ND in it.
Gaffer tape is your friend. Buy the good stuff (cloth)- it truly is worth it’s weight in gold.
Jon
“The Almighty tells me He can get me out of this mess. But He’s pretty sure you’re F%$#*D!”
-
PiP will probably do the least damage. Bear in mind, anytime you scale video, it looks like crap – particularly DV.
Jon
“The Almighty tells me He can get me out of this mess. But He’s pretty sure you’re F%$#*D!”
-
Well, I’m not sure you can control the Pannie deck via firewire unless you are using RS422 – did I miss that? If you are capturing via the firewire from the 170, but controlling the Pannie deck… I don’t think that will work. Firewire has imbedded deck control protocols – you may have to capture using the ‘no deck’ feature in the digitize tool (and forego TC). Panasonic decks are well supported in the deck configuration tool. Wouldn’t it be just as good to convert your tapes to DV using the 170 as a deck, then applying a reformat (assuming this is 16:9 footage – does the 170 support native 16:9, or just mask it like the 150?) to your footage in the Avid…. Bottom line, I think you’ll be losing your 24p flavor by running it through the 170. Might as well put it on DV and save yourself some headaches.
Jon
“The Almighty tells me He can get me out of this mess. But He’s pretty sure you’re F%$#*D!”
-
…Or you could use a wipe on layer two. Use the wipe as a segment effect instead of a transition. Wipes are our friends. Just ask George Lucas…
Jon
“The Almighty tells me He can get me out of this mess. But He’s pretty sure you’re F%$#*D!”
-
Even though you got a good answer on the Avid forum, I’ll take a stab at this question here…
The answer Bob Zelin gave raises some interesting questions. If money is truly not an issue, why do you still have a broken computer and dial up? The systems you mentioned all cost from $5000.00 and up. So, unless you are a trustafarian, money SHOULD be an issue (and brings me back to point one….). Which brings up another point: How are you going to get video to edit? Are you buying a camera, or partnering with a videographer? What format will you edit most? What will be your output format? VHS, DVD? Maybe .wmv or Quicktime files?
Any good edit system does three things: Ingests full-motion video at a specified quality, manipulates those files in real time (or in some cases, after a render) and outputs the finished product with an absolute minimum of degradation. The systems you mentioned (as well as Apple’s FCP) all do it well. Pay no attention to the marketing wonks who tell you otherwise. You must keep in mind the technical side of the equation. Any good edit system makes the technical considerations transparent – if you wind up troubleshooting a system, you are not being creative, and you’re not making money. Hence, my standard mantra to ‘buy from a reseller’.
Because this is an Avid forum, and I’m an Avid guy, I’d recommend Liquid. From the demos I’ve seen, It does all you’ll ever need.
As far as the ‘art of the edit’, the COW has a great forum called, well, the Art of the Edit. There is some absolutely outstanding information there. Search on topics that interest you, then read. Google ‘the art of the edit’, and search Amazon for books on the topic.
Lastly, I (and a lot of others here) learned to edit using two 3/4″ edit machines hooked together and a little cuts-only edit controller. I contend many who learn editing on a non-linear system rely too much on compositing and flashy transitions before they learn to tell a story. The story is in the images and sounds you have. It’s there and ready to breathe if you, as an editor, let it. Watch any news show. You’ll rarely see anything other than a dissolve – it’s about the story. So, my strongest advice is to edit. Wether it’s Windows Movie Maker, or a $100,000.00 system, edit. Make mistakes, learn pacing, learn what angles work and what angles don’t (and most importantly, WHY). Learn why audio is the single most important thing an editor has (and one most videographers neglect). Get as much seat time as you can. Bob’s advice to you about getting a job at a local station was spot on.
Time to get off the soapbox, into the shower and off to work. Happy editing at your friends house, and I hope you get your computer fixed. Soon.
Jon
-
One other thing – in your digitize settings, try selecting ‘ignore timecode breaks’ (or something like that). That helps as well.
Jon
“The Almighty tells me He can get me out of this mess. But He’s pretty sure you’re F%$#*D!”
-
Are you sure you don’t have ANY windows touching the monitor you are trying to play? Not even just a little bit?
Jon
“The Almighty tells me He can get me out of this mess. But He’s pretty sure you’re F%$#*D!”