[John Gregoriades]

Thank you, Peter.
Got your clear instructions. I normally do smooth transitions, with two or more “points” and the purpose is to have it all come out about the same, without any jarring retults.
Here and there there is an occasional very sharp loud “tick,” and I have made a deep but very narrow “Vee” in the adjustment, (after expanding the timeline to see it) in order to drop the dBAs and kill it. There must be a better way, I suppose.
John

[John Gregoriades]

Thank you Gary and Peter. The “simple” +/- pitch method worked very well. Lots of family memories are being resurrected. It’s going to be an emotional family get-together!
Another question on Audio: Some passages have low volume. I was able to add an audio envelope, add points, and increase the decibels in the low-volume areas. But, in a few sections, I would like to increase the volume a bit more than the maximum allowed in these envelopes.
Is there a way to make a “second pass,” or some other technique, to further increase the volume in selected sections?
Thank you again,
John

[John Gregoriades]

thank you, Edward.
As I said, it was right under my nose. I un-checked it and it worked just fine as you said. Many thanks!
John

[John Gregoriades]

Thanks!
While searching (before I bothered folks like you in this forum) I came across the device control, but cannot find where it is! Sorry, it must be under my nose. Where is it, please?
John

[John Gregoriades]

Just a follow-up.
After I inserted the “concocted” .BUP file, I used DVDA to burn a DVD. At the beginning of the process, an error message came up, but I bypassed it and it burned the DVD anyway. I was able to play the DVD successfully.
Thanks, again!
John

[John Gregoriades]

Thank you Steve. I followed your suggestions and was able to create .BUP files in the proper folder. “Record Now” which was bundled with my HP burner, did not like the results, and came up with an error message. NERO was able to burn satisfactorily (although it’s possible it could have done it without the .BUP.)
Now I am trying to figure out the chain of commands for DVDA that would accept a set of ready-created AUDIO_TS and VIDEO_TS files and burn a DVD (when there was no DAR saved). So far I haven’t been successful. It must be something simple…

[John Gregoriades]

Thank you, Steve
I tried your excellent idea, by copying the IFO files to another folder, but there was no way (that I know) to change them from IFO files to BUP files (and then bring them back into the folder from which they were missing). I could not find a way to “see” the IFO files as: “xxx.IFO” that could then be changed to “xxx.BUP”.
A thought: Is it possible that some well-intended “cleanup” program wiped any and all “backup files” in the PC? If so, this could be a serious problem down the road for many of us.

[John Gregoriades]

Thank you, James.
What you are suggesting as I understand it is to “mask” and slightly “blur” the offending spots of each photo. I did notice the flicker occurring on bright horizontal or nearly horizontal lines/areas. I do not use Photoshop much (except I loved learning/using the “healing brush” to restore some 1920’s photos a friend brought in), but I’m much more handy with Corel PhotoPaint which has very similar mask & blur controls. I will also try vignetting – I assume with Vegas? or beforehand? If with Vegas, I assume you can pre-set an equal amount of vignetting to a whole timeline string of photos.
John

[John Gregoriades]

Thank you, Edward.
Going to BEST quality on the Vegas rendering improved the results substantially. Trying reduce interlace “ON” on the DVDA preparation did not seem to have much of an effect.
But on the Vegas BEST rendering there were three spots where the background soundtrack went blank for a split second – for no reason. No fancy sound adjustments, in fact no adjustments to the sound. The sound was fine on the previous renders that had the extra flicker.
Any thoughts?
John

[John Gregoriades]

Thank you, Edward, and thank you, Allen.
John