Bob Zelin
7
COW Coins
Forum Replies Created
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Walter –
I believe that you might be wrong – I went to this URL, and saw the HDW-F500, but when I looked on the same site under VTR’s, there was no HDW-F500 listed. So I did the same search (under http://www.sony.com) for the Sony PVM-20L5/1, and found this monitor too, but I know for a fact that this monitor is discontinued by Sony, and is not found under the normal “browse” under http://www.sony.com/professional. Neither is the HDW-F500, which gives me the (shocked) opinion that this has been discontinued.But I could be wrong !
Bob Zelin
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this is from the Panasonic Product Manager of Panasonic on the AJ-HD1200A.
I don’t give a crap what anybody says they “can” do –
Bob ZelinHi Bob,
Sorry to say, and contrary to what others say, the AJ-HD1200A will NOT assemble edit. Try as they might, it is neither frame accurate or capable to sync up to an editing system. I have been told by many that the way to get back to the machine from FCP HD is to “Print to Tape”. But unfortunately until Apple supports TC back to the VTR, you can only “crash” record hoping to get close to TC 1:00:00:00.
You may want to contact Apple directly or go to a chat room like Creative Cow.net.
Thanks for asking.
Jeff Merritt
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my wild guess is that you have a disk drive issue – please describe EXACTLY what drives – what host adaptor, what type of drives, how they are stripped, what resolution you are using. This will help me guess what might be going on.
bob Zelin
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did you plug the highpoint card into a PCI-X slot ? Are you using the Highpoint X4
chassis, and are you using the Infiniband cable, or are you using the “internal” SATA drive ports?Bob Zelin
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If you have installed your Keyspan USA-28X drivers on your MAC, go to the Deck Config menu in settings, and select the Keyspan adaptor – either port 1 or 2. You will have fun poking around the Deck Config menu, with all of it’s choices.
Bob Zelin
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you ain’t gonna see nothing correctly on an Apple 30″ display using a HD Link or anyone elses converters (unless your 30″ Apple cinema is the main display on your MAC G5 that has an ATI X850XT or NVidia 6800). The 30″ Cinema is DVI-D, not DVI-I and the HD Link (or anyone elses HD to DVI converter) will not drive the 30″ monitor correctly.
Bob Zelin
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having a decklink card at home, with no professional equipment like pro monitors or pro VTR’s makes no sense. You can just “off line” edit on your computer screen. Buying a SDI to analog composite converter is only about $350 US, and Edirol speakers that can take the SPDIF audio to powered speakers is under $200. If all of this is too much money, then you don’t need the DL at home. Keep it at work with your professional equipment.
Bob Zelin
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no – you cannot replace or “upgrade” this card. This is a video overlay card, which is critical to the Media Composer application.
I have recently discovered that doing something even simplier – removing the ATTO SCSI card and replacing it with a modern SATA card – will prevent the Media Composer application from launching. So no, you can’t replace the Number Nine EDC card.
Bob Zelin
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you ain’t gonna get miracles – the Kona 2 will downconvert, but will not turn a 23.98 project (that you captured in 23.98) into 29.97 NTSC. I don’t know exactly what you are doing, but typically when you work in HD, you use the VTR’s 2:3:3:2 pulldown feature to let the VTR turn the 23.98 project into 59.94. This is now a normal frame rate, which the Kona 2 will EASILY convert to standard analog composite and component 525 29.97, which can be displayed on any cheapo monitor, or dumped out to a Beta VTR or VHS machine.
When you work with a Panasonic Varicam, and shoot in 23.98, and use the Panasonic AJ-HD1200A or AJ-HD1700A to digitize from, the VTR will add in the pulldown, so now you have a normal framerate to work with, but still keep the “film look”. Same applies to Sony – you shoot with the Cinealta at 23.98, and use the J-H3 in 23PD mode, and it adds the pulldown. You now have a normal frame rate, and the Kona 2 will downconvert to your standard VTR’s and TV monitors.
If you actually digitized in 23.98 (which I never recommend to do) – like you used a Sony HDW-M2000/1 which does not offer pulldown, but you still need a downconvert – you can use the AJA HD10MD3, which will take the HD 23.98 output, add the pulldown, and do the downconversion for you. I can’t imagine why anyone in the world would edit in 24p, unless they are finishing for feature film release on FILM.
When you actually edit (and want to dump back) to a VTR in 23.98, even though AJA offers “free run”, you should really be using a tri level sync generator. I ALWAYS tell people to work at standard frame rates, even if they shoot at 23.98, to avoid all this aggrivation. 59.94 uses a nice standard cheapo black gen, and gives you no issues with down conversion.
Bob Zelin
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It is my opinion that if you have a Sony PVM-14L2 or PVM20L2, you will suffer on a HD project. It is my advice that you either try to get your hands on a Sony PVM-14L5/1 or a PVM-20L5/1 (now discontinued), or get one of these cheap DVI monitors. Remember, the Dell is probably under $1000 with the right discount code. the PVM-14L2 will not scan to HD frequencies, the L5 will. And of course, the computer monitors will too.
Bob Zelin