Michael Sacci
1
COW Coin
Forum Replies Created
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If you are only putting 30 minutes on a DVD change the encoding preset to CBR method and it will encode in less then real time and you don’t even need QMaster set up. On a fast MacPro it should take on more than 20 minutes to encode. This is fastest if you make the QT as Shane says but also speeds up the Share function.
But the real question is what do you mean by “Pulsating?” Do you have a field order issue? If you are going from a HD interlace to SD DVD you need to make sure that your are keeping the field order at Upper so you don’t introduce the issue. IF that is not the case can you describe it better.
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You can try this piece of software – https://download.cnet.com/The-Levelator/3000-2170_4-143304.html
It is not a plugin so you would export your entire timeline’s audio into a stereo aif file (if you have a music bed I would NOT include it. Drop it in the app, and then bring the new audio back in and set the track level to what you need. This will be a super quick process. The other way to do it is to learn normalize and add a limiter/compression to each track in FCP or STP or hire an audio professional.
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Sorry David it say impact resistant not bullet-proof.
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This one is full 1920×1080, I have the 50′ in my living room and love it.
But the first one has impact resistant glass which might be better in a classroom situation. 🙂
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You have to copy the files off the card to your HD. Then you point L&T to that folder. You need to be using a Card reader and not the camera. Canon has a utility of its own to offload the files but you do not want to use it.
Card in Card Reader.
-Copy everything as is from the card to a folder on your HD. (All the folders must be copied as is)
– In L&T point it to your folder on the HD. -
[John Christie] “audio on the 60D sucks for video, ALC only, no manual control”
No true, it has manual control of the audio, but you cannot monitor it (not sure if you can on the GH2)The Panasonic does have autofocus but only if you use one of there lenses and they are pretty slow. So the question is what type of video are you trying to get. If you are a run and gun operation with little time to set up DSLR video may not be what you are looking for. While both of these cameras have their differences from one another there is no clear winner for video or still.
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Compressor is a pretty complicated app to get running right if it goes south. But there is a free app that really helps it is by Digital Rebellion – https://www.digitalrebellion.com/compressorrepair/
Run it and see if you fixes things for you. If it doesn’t you need to uninstall all of the compressor files and reinstall. DR has an app for that also. https://www.digitalrebellion.com/fcsremover/ just select Compressor so you are not reinstalling the full FCS suite. -
why start a new thread, what did you try from the other thread.
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[Bob Zelin] “throw out your CRT.”
NEVER, they will have to pry my tube out of my cold dead hands!
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you cantranscode it to whatever you need, of course it will not be as good as use the source material.