Michael Sacci
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COW Coin
Forum Replies Created
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okay you are titling up to a lighter part of the subject and you are wondering why the image is brighter in Manual, that is exactly what you would except to happen. It is brighter because there is more light not because the lens is opening up.
In auto the aperture would stop DOWN to keep the exposure the same.
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[Ronan Feely] “Or do I need to change settings elsewhere?”
You have not listed your compression settings for the m2v so it is hard to say.But a couple of things never work with PR(HQ) you are just wasting space, use standard ProRes. Then if you are exporting as NOT self-contained it is by passing the compressor setting for all but the parts that have been rendered.
I don’t work with a lot of HDV footage (and I transcode it to ProRes before I edit if I do) but I did some test a few years ago for a friend and we found that send the timeline to compressor within FCP gave us the best quality with HDV footage. Be advise that this is a slow process.
Before doing your full movie I recommend trying a 5 min piece of the timeline, make sure it is the most challenging part. When I do this I make sure nothing is rendered, yeap nothing. Send to Compressor (FCP7) or Export with Compressor (FCP6). In Compressor drop on any of the DVD presets (along with ac3 audio.
Things to check and change.
ENCODER tab
Video Format: <29.97> <16:9> Make sure the field Dom, is set to do not leave it on Auto.
Quality: Mode to Average Bitrate to 6, max is grayed out, motion doesn’t matter
leave the rest as isFRAME CONTROL tab
Turn it on. Set resize filter to make sure output fields is set to same as source.You are good to go. This is not the recommended workflow for most people on the Cow so I’m grazing by myself, but it is worth a try and it has worked wonders for me.
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[Seth Blaustein] “Wrong Type”
Have hacked the EOS plugin? Since FCP L&T will not work with the T2i unless it is hacked?
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7D and 60D would be the same, they both shoot cleaner (less noise ISO than the T2i) 7D, 60D and the T2i have the exact same sensor so the only difference is more ISO choices for the first two, which is a big deal.
5D is better in low light 1D is King.
The HVX doesn’t even hold a candle to the T2i with regards to low light. But you still need a fast lens, the stock lens sucks in low light. If you are at 55mm you are wide open with a 5.6mm.
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[Roy Schneider] “”iris” adjust”
?? the Iris is equivalent to the aperture on these cameras, why would moving the camera change the aperture? Unless you have a light on the camera moving the camera would have little effect on the exposure.Please be a little more clearer.
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[achille lalonde] “. i am a one man “studio” with no budget for technical assistance, therefore here i am at The Cow…”
So am I but I make it a habit of knowing how to operate the software I need to do my job. This is not “under the hood” stuff it is DVD Authoring 101. Some things are not clear in manuals and some things fall through the cracks and that is what the Cow is for, not to replace reading the manual.GOP structure – NOPE default for every Apple preset is IBBP and size is 12 for 24fps and 15 for 30 fps
In general we post our opinion which is normally based on years of experience as well as what we have read from others along the way. I know what works for me, I know what most others things about things, I don’t document them The DVD-R vs +R was settled years ago and there is no reason (for me) to every address it. What I do know is that I have burned thousands of DVDs for hundreds of DVDs that have been mass replicated to just having several duplicated copies. Of the DVDs coming out of my systems I can count on one hand the disc that have had a playback problem. (other than disc that don’t play because I did something wrong in authoring).
But everything thing on the Cow is offered as take it or leave (don’t mean that in a rude away), some people are more technical/engineer types. The key to the cow is finding people you trust and follow there advice.
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The stock lens can be used but it not a good choice for any video situation. For one it is the hard lens to manually focus that has ever been made, it is also very slow. The IS is a very good thing.
What kills people on focusing is this crazy must have the shallowest DoF ever, if you are having to really follow focus you need depth to get a nice safety zoom.
In the end you can make most things work and the camera you have will always take better images then the one you are saving up for. There is a balance of need, want and money available. You are the only one to know the answer.
Best around system on the canon side, is the 60D with the 24-105 f4 lens. 2K but that is my opinion (it is also what I have).
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I’m talking about fitting the letterboxed stuff to match your 16:9.
It has been a long time since I used the DVX the mode you used is called Squeeze in the menu (if my memory is correct) this mode gives you 16:9 anamorphic footage. If that is what you want to edit as, you need to apply my above instruction to the letterboxed footage. If this is not what you want I don’t understand what you are trying to do.
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For camera I recommend the 60D over the T2i and even over the 7D. That camera is right at 1K without the lens.
No autofocus on any of the Canon’s while shooting you can before you shoot but once you hit record you really have to be in manual. I think the Panasonic GH2 can autofocus with its own lenses but they are really slow for video.
There is a lot more to buy then just the body. Even with a 1K camera you will probably spend another 1-3K easily.
For training there is Richard’s Book Still to Motion.
For class room check out https://mewshop.com/courses/course_detail/DSLR%20Intensive%20Workshop/
It is run by Jem, his blog is great and he seems like a great teacher. https://www.thec47.com/ -
[Melina Kolb] “so being able to quickly get shots without too much setup is important. “ that is NOT what these cameras are know for. They tend to be slower movie style shots. But that is not to say they cannot be used for run and gun, there is just a lot to over come. You may want to look at the new Panasonic AF100 which will act more like a video camera but getting the right lenses can be tricky.
The are NOT convenient when compared to a video camera for video work, they are not cheap but the time you get all the stuff you need to make them work.
This is not to say that this cannot be done but you need to get the word easy out of your head, this is a lot of work to get it right but once you get it it is well worth the effort. I highly recommend Richards book also. That should be your first purchase. Since you have Nikon lens see about renting the D7000 and try it out for a weekend.
as for as reviews did you look on Phil’s site, it is pretty much all video. Also google HDDSLR or HD DSLR and you should get more video hits.