Michael Sacci
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COW Coin
Forum Replies Created
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Just about any Professional DVD authoring program can do this all you need to do is read the manual.
All you are doing is end jumping each video to the needed menu.
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Manual states Class 6
I bought 16GB Toshiba Class 4s when I got the camera and before reading the manual. They have worked just fine but I would not buy them again. I would be Transcend Class 6. Faster cards may give you faster offload speeds (if you have a high end card reader) but they will not give you better performance in camera.
Transcend are also the most reasonably priced cards.
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I have the T2i because of the price, if I had the money I would have gotten the 7D for the build. That being said I am completely happy with the T2i, The body is the lest expensive part of the system, it is just a start. I have spent that $1K I saved on the body on lenses, and stuff to make the camera work as a video camera, and I’m not done yet.
Zack, you state that you will be using the T2i (and this goes for every DSLR) as a handheld. Well you most buy some extra gear to make it work well. First make sure you are getting IS lenses. The problem is right now you have to spend big bucks to get faster constant aperture lenses that also have IS built into them. Both are needed for video handheld work. Then you will also want to get a sholder rig of some type and they range from $300-3000.
Search the forum and there is a lot of discussion on equipment options. WIth DSLR the spending never stops.
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I also think that a variable ND filter is a must for HDSLR shooting. I use it as I would an Iris control on a camcorder. Love it. But I have one filter to use for all my lenses I have right now. I have a rubber collapsible lens hood on the filter at all times. I have no problem screwing the filter on to the lens with the hood on. I then use the hood to adjust the ND level. Then I just buy a lens cap that fits the front of the hood. The hood also gives the filter added protection in my camera bag, with the other side I just use a cheap UV filter that I remove before but the ND filter on.
I went with the Fader ND Fader filter, yes that name is confusing. I have been extremely please with that brand also. M recommendation would be to use the variable for a while before buying extra ND, if you fine you need them then buy them.
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but you cannot run then at the same time if they are no the same network.
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that is a mess. If you are burning a NTSC DVD just leave your assets NTSC. It sounds like that is what you have, correct?
Most DVD players can play NTSC just fine. Mixing the formats is legal in DVD spec so I don’t even know why iDVD is giving you the option to continue.
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Rule of Thumb –
Alway keep the field dominance the same through the entire workflow if going to DVD.If using Compressor set it yourself, don’t use auto.
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No idea what you are doing, why would replacing the multiclip angle with the original clip help out, if you collapse the clip you are pretty much getting the same performance. Going back and forth is just asking for a lot of trouble down the road. when you are completely done with the multicam edit you can media manage the sequence to remove all the unused clips.
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that is not reasonable.
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If you are trying to reverse telecine an edited piece I don’t think you are going to have any luck. Every time you edit a clip you are changing the cadence of the pull down. Each clip needs to be done separately.
Quick fix is to just deinterlace the entire timeline (do a short test) compressor with frame control can give you the best quality but takes the longest time. Then encode the m2v as progressive. This may help but you are not fixing the problem as much as hiding it.