Kevin Hamm
Forum Replies Created
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[rafael amador] “NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use USB”
Bullox! This is not the source of your problem. If you were laying the footage back out to tape and were getting dropped frames, then yeah, you’d have to look at how you have your drives connected. But for exporting it really doesn’t matter.
Here’s the quickest solution for you – open the sequence, choose File > Export > QuickTime Movie. Not “QuickTime Conversion”, and not “Using Compressor”, use “Quicktime Movie” and then make sure that “Make Movie Self-Contained” is checked on the export dialog box. Do NOT check the “Recompress All Frames” as you’ll be waiting well past when Christ’s return.
Save the file somewhere you’ll easily find it. Desktop is where I do this stuff. But I’m a rebel.
Anyway, after it’s exported, check it, make sure it plays, blah blah blah. Then open Compressor and drag the movie in and choose some exports and destinations appropriate for your goals.
And why do I use a QuickTime movie instead of creating a new sequence, setting it’s format, and reworking all the bits and pieces of the timeline so that it all fits the way I intend? Because, when going from NTSC to H.264, pieces brought in from Photoshop and Motion and LiveType and After Effects can all have color changes, effects issues (like glows not appearing anymore) and it’s a mess. Compressor is really quite good, and because it’s reducing rendered frames, the colors won’t shift, glows can’t disappear, etc.
So, that’s my 2¢. Hope it helps!
kev~!
Kevin Hamm
Video, Web, Print and coloring books. -
Also, make sure that your TIFFs and JPEGs are all in RGB and not in CMYK. Just in case you are still running into problems.
kev~!
Kevin Hamm
Video, Web, Print and coloring books. -
[Grant Strac] “150 minutes of a lecture in acc format that i took off a FCP”
I have no idea what this even means! And then, this:
[Grant Strac] “When i goto burn it on to a cd I am several minutes over”
Um, there are several ways to get this onto a CD, but this is still a confused question. Notice that the first person to answer you gave you video specs, but your statement about being “minutes over” makes it seem like you’re dealing with an audio file.
And if you are dealing with an Audio File, I can tell you the problem. You can’t build an Audio CD that will play longer than 80 minutes. Why? Because that’s how CDs were designed. It actually has to do with a recording of a certain symphony that was 76 minutes long. The engineers on the first CDs had to be able to store and reproduce the entirety of that recording before the executive in charge of the project would present it to become what it is today. So if you are trying to make an audio cd, you’ll have to split the file and make two of them.
Of course, if you can play MP3 CDs, just change the AAC to an MP3 and burn it in the finder.
However, if you have video footage that you want to burn to a CD, um, well… on CD? Really? To play on something other than a computer? And what are you burning the CD with? Toast? A lighter?
In compressor, there is a DVD 150 min NTSC setting, choose that. Or, if your footage is anamorphic, choose the DVD 150 min NTSC 16:9. Make sure to also choose to make the audio to the Dolby Digital file as well, then use DVD Studio Pro to create the final DVD.
Hopefully I’ve covered something helpful for you. If not, if you could give some more information I’m sure help will appear.
kev~!
Kevin Hamm
Video, Web, Print and coloring books. -
[Zane Barker] “I am definitely getting the 17” High-Res, it has some sweet screen real-estate. I just haven’t decided on mat or glossy yet. “
I just bought the MBP 15″ this past month, and it’s lovely. I didn’t get the glossy screen, and opted out of the larger real-estate because of two things, which may or may not apply to anyone reading this, but seem to apply here.
I have a G5 editing bay for day to day stuff. I use the MBP for client meetings, travel shoots, and when I want to edit someplace other than my basement office. Since I have the 30″ monitor on the desk, I can deal with the 15″ on my laptop as I cruise free from it.
The bigger reason, tho, is that the 15″ uses an LED backlight, where the 17 still uses a CCFL (fluorescent bulb) backlight that is neither as bright or as even after a few year’s use. My old 17″ PB has faded corners. Ugh.
So, if you’ve got a desktop and the MBP is for mobility, you might go with the 15. If you are using it as your primary editing system, you could choose either, but if you’re doing a lot of Color or Motion, the 15 is what I’d choose. After all, they both can power the 30″ Cinema Display, so …
kev~!
Kevin Hamm
Video, Web, Print and coloring books. -
I’m having the same issue, although I found a way around it. Like all work-arounds, tho, it’s not ideal.
Change the controller device to Uncontrolled Device, but leave the format at HDV. Rewind to the beginning of the Tape, press play on the camera, hit capture now in FCP. You’ll have your footage. ALL of it, but it’s better than nothing. You may have to adjust the “Capture Now Limited to” setting to something large, or disengage it entirely, as well.
On, another note: [James Rhodimer] ” I’m in fCP 4.5 on a G5″
James, there is a good chance that you will have to upgrade to FCP 6 to make this work. I know that 4.5 was called Final Cut Pro HD, but, um, it’s not able to do anything with HDV. I’m not positive on FCP 5, but looking around the FCP board, you’ll see that a lot.
kev~!
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I checked the screengrabs, and the first one is a clue that you might have imported the footage in some non-standard way. Why do I think this? Because, you can have the camera display that information when playing back tape AND you can have that information pushed out the composite connections as well.
So how did you import the footage? What format is it currently in? And since you see the D/T flicker in and out as you scrub, you’re probably right that you can easily remove it, so there’s a good chance that you just imported your footage with either a wrong setting or through a monitor-intended video port on the camera.
kev~!
Kevin Hamm
Video, Web, Print and coloring books. -
[Lynne Desjardins] “as a pass-through into my editing system”
Do you mean you are using this in place of a deck? I’m going to guess yes and give you a couple other options for what might be wrong.
1) check your connections and cables. In fact, unplug and swap out the cables you are using currently (firewire, probably, although you could be using S-video or something else, who knows) and get different, preferably new cables, and, after cleaning the ports with a can of compressed air, plug everything back in, test the system.
2) Assuming that you’re using firewire connections, swap the connection to another port on the computer/editing system. You probably have a few, try them. You won’t believe the problems that can happen when a port is broken in a non-completely-broken way.
3) Keep an eye open on DealsOnTheWeb.com as they had a deal for a zr800 last week for something like 180 bucks.
Hope something here helps!
kev~!
Kevin Hamm
Video, Web, Print and coloring books. -
You’re using USB. And for some reason, the physical port for USB 1.x is the same as USB 2.x. Which means if you’re pulling video over a port that you know is USB but don’t know what version and it seems slow, well, there’s a good chance that it’s 1.x – which was so slow that the original iPods had Firewire, and that was, what, 2002?
Try another USB port if you’ve got one. I don’t know if you’re using a desktop or laptop, but I do know that the USB ports on Cinema displays are 1.1, so that will be slow, as will any downstream extension of that port.
Kevin Hamm
Video, Web, Print and coloring books. -
Unless the tapes were 1,2 & 3 or 8, 9 & 10 you’re probably right in that there is something wrong with the tapes and not your camera. If you can’t get anything off them, toss them and reshoot. There’s nothing else for it.
If, however, you can play back from any point of the tape, pull what you can, and hope for the best. I had a bad tape this weekend cause me an extra 9 hours of editing on a show that I normally don’t spend 9 hours from shoot to final tape delivery, so I feel your pain. But what else can you do?
if a part is worn on a camera, it generally degrades over time, not has a bad day then works, then doesn’t another day a week later. Just my experience, YMMV.
Kevin Hamm
Video, Web, Print and coloring books. -
I would consider getting a more powerful graphics card. Aren’t the OpenGL features of Core Image, Video and Animation all passed off to the graphics card to handle, anyway? They aren’t that expensive, and you don’t need a top of the line one. If you have a local computer shop, you might even ask if they have a 128 MB card that someone just dumped to put in something bigger for gaming that they’d let you try.
Just a thought. It’s what I”m hoping for here, as I have to get a new card to work in color in the office…