Jason Porthouse
Forum Replies Created
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If you can’t go to FCS2 (and it is worth it) then an alternative that works well is iStabilize. A stand-alone app that is simple and effective… not connected, just a happy user. I’ve corrected heli shots with it and it works well. Learning curve isn’t too bad either…
50 of your ‘merkin dollars I believe.
J
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Before you criticise a man, walk a mile in his shoes.
Then when you do criticise him, you’ll be a mile away. And have his shoes.*the artist formally known as Jaymags*
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Debbie,
The problem you have for colour balanbce is FCP can’t tell what is right or wrong, just as Photoshop can’t. So you need a little human input. Believe me, the first person to come up with a ‘FIX IT NOW’ plugin (along with the associated ‘MAKE IT WORK’ filter) will make a mint…
Anyway, use the color corrector. You’ll se that the auto levels are there, and as you’ve stated they work on the luminance and contrast – but below the left-hand colour wheel there’s a little eydropper button. This sets white balance – you click on it, then click on something in your image that you know to be white. FCP will correct the image accordingly. It does a pretty good job – with the caveat that the area you click on must be something that should be white in order for it to be accurate.
Now, when you use it, look at how the colour wheel above the eydropper changes – the little dot will move towards a colour in the spectrum. by seeing what FCP does, you’ll get a feel for how the CC tool works – where you need to move the colour bias towards in order to correct a certain cast.
If the shot you’re correcting has nothing white in, find a shot (or part of the shot) with similar lighting that does have something white in, and correct that. You can then save the correction for other shots in similar light, and it won’t be too far off.
Obvioulsly this is very basic, but don’t be intimidated by the CC tool – the more you use it the more you’ll understand what’s happening.
J
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Before you criticise a man, walk a mile in his shoes.
Then when you do criticise him, you’ll be a mile away. And have his shoes.*the artist formally known as Jaymags*
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[zrb123] “Another option that you can do is capture as native HDV and then change your render settings to ProRes.”
Definitely what I’d plump for. Capture and edit native HDV. Dump your final sequence in to a prores timeline (or uncompressed SD, 10-bit) and render. Output a quicktime (NOT via QT conversion!) for Compressor to encode. It’ll look lovely. I do it all the time.
J
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Before you criticise a man, walk a mile in his shoes.
Then when you do criticise him, you’ll be a mile away. And have his shoes.*the artist formally known as Jaymags*
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Matt,
Check your DVW-500 again- make sure it’s not something in the menus. I’ve had problems before, when hiring a deck especially, where someone’s screwed around with the menu settings. It’s taken a while sitting with the manual to get it back on line. They should work right off the bat, both using sony 422 protocol – but there may be a Decklink ‘gotcha’ I don’t know about…
Jason
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Before you criticise a man, walk a mile in his shoes.
Then when you do criticise him, you’ll be a mile away. And have his shoes.*the artist formally known as Jaymags*
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Anyone? There must be some users in the field…
Can anyone from BM enlighten me to the upscaling abililties?
Jason
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Before you criticise a man, walk a mile in his shoes.
Then when you do criticise him, you’ll be a mile away. And have his shoes.*the artist formally known as Jaymags*
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Thanks Forrest. An informative and interesting post.
[Forrest Burger] “I hope that BMD listens to its users and continues to improve it’s quality and support. My experience with the Intensity was good. I only hope that my experience with the Multibridge Pro 2 is similar. If not…well, there’s always another option.
“That’s key for me. This post’s been up,what a couple of days now? Not a peep from BM. I really do want to get a handle on the SD upres capabilities of this.
Interestingly enough, on an earlier post I made here looking for info, within a day of posting (on this forum!) I’d recieved an SMS from AJA’s rep here in the UK, offering his help if I wanted any info. Surprising, and very pro-active.
Jason
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Before you criticise a man, walk a mile in his shoes.
Then when you do criticise him, you’ll be a mile away. And have his shoes.*the artist formally known as Jaymags*
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The JH3 is RS-422, not 232. That could be a good place to start. 😉
Jason
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Before you criticise a man, walk a mile in his shoes.
Then when you do criticise him, you’ll be a mile away. And have his shoes.*the artist formally known as Jaymags*
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Thanks for that Paul, an interesting perspective from a ‘switcher’.
It really is a price issue for me – I can stretch to a K3, but it’s a new business (old editor though!) so a bit of an unknown. That halving of price buys a lot of peripherals – but this only works if I’m not halving the quality/usability.
What bothers me is the (sometimes) whistling of the wind and tumbleweed feel of the BM forum… there are few posts and they don’t update that often. Is this because BM’s cards are so reliable everyone is busy making billable hours? I hope so!
In the meantime anyone else with a real-world experience of the Pro, or the Eclipse (not considering but similar performance I believe), your thoughts would be gratefully recieved.
Anyone from BM care to comment on the upconversion capabilities? Some hard tech info, about workflow and what is/is not possible, would be great.
Cheers,
Jason
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Before you criticise a man, walk a mile in his shoes.
Then when you do criticise him, you’ll be a mile away. And have his shoes.*the artist formally known as Jaymags*
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[rafalaos] “DPI’s talk about RESOLUTION. And this is a property of the hardware.”
Rafael is right on this one. DPI only matters when you are talkiing image size, as in a physical measurement. A one inch wide photo scanned at 300dpi will, obviously, yield a better image (and hence larger file size for a given type) than the same scanned at 72dpi.
Separate out the video world from the print world. 720×576 (or your NTSC equivalent) will ALWAYS be 720×576… if you then specified an DPI, this would merely let the printer know how big the final printout would be! 72 would be 10 inches wide…
The only time I worry about DPI is when scanning – you have a photo, you know its dimensions, you know how you’d like to translate that on screen. That’s when DPI is useful.
As to Walter’s experience, I can only say that if resampling is off, PS yeilds identical file sizes IN MY EXPERIENCE – YMMV!! Resampling on, yes then considirable difference as you’d expect. With resampling on you’re changing resolution with regard to image size, either up or down.
HTH
Jason
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Before you criticise a man, walk a mile in his shoes.
Then when you do criticise him, you’ll be a mile away. And have his shoes.*the artist formally known as Jaymags*
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LOL Tom, none taken! I know I *should* know better…
It’s funny though how you can go through your career editing, and never come across a particular function just because you never have cause for it. You can also subconciously develop ‘workarounds’ for a function you never knew existed… then someone says ‘why don’t you do that?’ and the penny drops…
But yes, at the end of the day, RTFM… I guess I should put my FCP manuals in the smallest room in the house. I’ll know it inside out in the space of a month.
Jason
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Before you criticise a man, walk a mile in his shoes.
Then when you do criticise him, you’ll be a mile away. And have his shoes.*the artist formally known as Jaymags*