[Ivan Myles]

You might want to shoot a few seconds to test whether the camera records 60p=2.5x24p or 60i=30p=1.25x24p.

[Ivan Myles]

There are a few ways to create a sequence that matches your source footage:

[Ivan Myles]

[Ben Edwards] “the problem is when there is a lot of movement and a lot of detail it does not look good/is blury”

Try unconstrained bitrate and Quality=100. If that doesn’t work, generate an intermediate file and encode with QuickTime Pro at max settings.

[Ivan Myles]

In Finder, sort by Type and scroll through the list to the video files. To filter out all other files, make note of the video extensions and use Bridge as described above by Joseph.

[Ivan Myles]

It will be better to keep the source settings unless the new video needs to be a different frame rate. To create a sequence with the same settings as the source footage, right-click the file in the Project panel and select “New Sequence from Clip.”

If you want to change the frame rate, can you use 25fps instead of 24fps? It will probably scale more smoothly from 8.345fps (each video frame will appear three times).

To increase the video frame rate and maintain the original audio rate, insert video and audio tracks separately (or insert together and “Unlink”) and use the “Speed/Duration…” function to adjust each track independently.

[Ivan Myles]

Thanks, Angelo.

[Ivan Myles]

Here are three options:

1) Using your Premiere Pro project: set the work area to the first half of the movie, export (i.e. re-render), and copy the rendered file to a DVD; set the work area to the second half of the movie, export, and copy to a second DVD; or

2) Using the existing 16GB H.264 file: Import the H.264 to Premiere Pro; create a new sequence from the imported file; set the work area to the first half of the movie and export; set the work area bar to the second half of the movie and export; or

3) Using the existing 16B H.264 file: copy the file to a USB stick, SDHC card, Blu-ray disc, or external/removable hard drive

[Ivan Myles]

I agree with Ryan’s comment. As long as time and bandwidth available, you are better off uploading a high quality file because it will be recompressed by the video web site.

There are a few ways to produce smaller files. With the settings listed above as a reference point, increasing key frame distance is the best way to reduce size with minimal impact on quality. One key frame every 0.5-2.0 seconds is normal, although some encodes go much higher. Further file size reductions can be achieved by decreasing the target bitrate settings, but picture quality will drop accordingly.

[Ivan Myles]

Determining the best resolution and aspect ratio will depend on the quality and composition of your footage. The most common approach is to upscale the SD footage and maintain the 4:3 aspect ratio, then fill the letterbox area with background copies of the left and right portions of the same video with colorization effects applied to be less dominant. This should allow the SD footage to be OK at 1080p.

If you prefer to use full frame instead of the approach described above, you will need to assess the composition of each shot. Can the 4:3 footage be cropped to 16:9? Anamorphic 4:3 SD should be OK when resized and cropped to 720p 16:9 with square pixels. It might be acceptable when scaled to 1080p 16:9, but the source quality would need to be very high. Alternatively, can the the 16:9 video be cropped to 4:3? If none of these approaches is satisfactory, perhaps you can split the difference and go with 3:2 (720×480, 1080×720, or maybe 1080×1620).

[Ivan Myles]

Glad it worked out for you.