Eric Johnson
Forum Replies Created
-
I suspect that the reason you’re dropping frames, is that your Pre-Roll is not giving the camera/ FCP enough room to distinguish the the frame cadence, even though you have allowed for the 3 1/2 Sec’s for the camera to get video speed. Try at least a 4 or 5 sec Pre-Roll.
Also, if I understood correctly, you may have clips logged as 24pA but are actually 24p and vice-versa, this will cause unreliable capturing and dropped frames.
you may also want to go into FCP> A/V Settings and check your capture preset to be sure that it’s set up to remove pull down for FW devices.
Hopefully some of that helps.
-
If you go into the “User Settings” in the FCP drop down, change how FCP deals with a TC break to warn after capture, then you’ll have just one clip that you can subclip. It will be faster and easier on your deck, but just as time consuming.
As far as one deck being faster than the other, the higher end deck ideally would be faster, but finding the exact frame of the TC break and doing the pre-roll is just plain time consuming.
If you need multiple clips, have your shooters take note of when they start and stop the camera and do a very quick log of the tape and let it roll after you get to the end of the tape.
If you do the later of the options you can just set it and forget it, because the breaks should be a null issue.
All options will take some of your time the later should take the least.
-
Have you checked the RT tab on the far left of the timeline to see if your video quality is set to low or dynamic andat the bottom of that pull down, there is a setting to output at timeline settings or highest quality. Set output to high quality.
Did that help?
-
Stuttery audio yes, audio phasing in and out of sync and speed probably not.
-
it could be power surging, try using a higher end surge protector. I would have thought low battery power, but you being plugged into the wall…. I’d say bad wall power. Maybe your AC adapter is bad also.
-
If i’m understanding your problem correctly, what you have is a digital frame line from your source material, which i’m assuming was DVD converted to DV. This is fairly common, in my experiaence. to eliminate/ avoid you will probably have to blow up your frame to hide your right frame edge, probably 2 or 3 percent.
hope that helps.
-
First, should this happen again in the future, “n” is the hotkey for snapping. Learning hotkey’s will just make your FCP experience, in my opinion, better.
To fix the problem, Right-Click (CTRL-Click, if you have a one button mouse) in the area above the timeline where the button used to be. Select Remove> All/ Restore Defaults. After that, all should be right in the world.
-
It’s a pretty good rule of thumb. But, depending on your specific situation, it may be better to keep your projects on the same drive as their media, and have your Autosave Vault on your secondary internal. Basically you need to have some way of getting back your original should a problem occur. If your Autosave Vault, in my experience, is on your boot drive and you are working with larger FCP project files- say larger than 50MB- then you are more prone to crashes and erratic FCP behavior.
Also, it’s a good idea, if you have the drives, to render to a drive that isn’t your media drive, preferably your fastest non-boot drive-available. It will speed renders up some if you’re not writing to the drive you’re reading from.
-
You seemed to get what I said.
To get you really on track though, and you may not like me for this, I would say look through the documentation that comes with Cinema Tools. I know reading manuals is not the most fun, but the Apple documentation is usually not to burdensome.
I just know from experience that, looking through the manuals and then coming back to the forums to fill in the holes is a beneficial process.
Hope that helps and doesn’t deter you in any way.
-
If you use Cinema Tools in conjunction with the Flex File from your transfer you should be able to maintain all of your keycode for your film lists. If you start your cinema tools database with your Flex File and export a batchlist from Cinema Tools for FCP then reverse in Cinema Tools your TC shouldn’t be affected, especially if you do the faster but larger method of the reverse telecine.
After that as long as you keep your comunication between FCP and Cinema Tools up to date, everything should work out.
That will get you to your film list.
For your HD SR up res, you would use the same batchlist that you have from your DV CAM offline, before the reverse, then apply that to your Online project. Then you apply your reverse telecine and reconnect to your Offline project.
That’s how it’s supposed to work.