[David Smith]

[Jeremy Garchow] “It sounds like you might not be getting the wireless signal. Use the front control panel so the Ki doesn’t get confused on where to grab an IP.

make sure and restart the Ki before proceeding.”

Thanks Jeremy, I have indeed tried that, and did so again at your prompting. No go. The Ki Pros do see the network. (config menu 53.0) and they do assign the found network when chosen (config menu 53.2). I set up a second access point just to make sure, and they see both networks and switch between them when asked to.

Tell me please, have you ever gotten this to work?

Can anyone suggest a valid static IP address and subnet mask so I can try that instead of the DHCP? Nothing I’ve tried works, but I don’t really know much about network protocols.

[David Smith]

[Jeremy Garchow] “[David Smith] “public as in not hidden, correct?”

Exactly. You aren’t hooked up to ethernet as well, are you?
“

No. I’ve tried setting the Ki Pro from the front panel, and also using the Wireless page in the GUI, and then unplugging the ethernet cable after applying the settings.

Thanks!
David

[David Smith]

[Jeremy Garchow] “Is the SSID public?
“

Hi Jeremy,

Just to make sure I understand your question…. public as in not hidden, correct?

If so, yes, the SSID is public. It appears in the list of available wireless networks on my computers and is also listed by both of my Ki Pros as available.

The SSID uses only upper and lower case letters. No spaces or special characters. Same with the password. (anticipating a different question)

Thanks!
David

[David Smith]

very cool ap, thanks.

[David Smith]

[Chris Blair] “Some additional questions. We use an SDX-900 and I was wondering if there was anything we need to watch out for with either the P+S or Letus models? “

Take a look at this post, Chris. Steve Weiss discusses the new Letus model designed for 2/3″ cameras:

https://forums.creativecow.net/readpost/54/857297

[David Smith]

[Erich Hoberg] “I know I can use the time code generator/reader to produce a lower third burn, but that will interfere with the graphics”

If it makes a difference, you can put the TC burn anywhere you want and at whatever size you want. I also remove the TCR prefix too so just the numbers appear.

[David Smith]

….. other toys to look at besides the io HD and the Kona line:

Matrox MXO 2
MOTU V4HD
Blackmagic makes several video converters as well.

I use a Kona LH card and the V4HD converter box and both work fine for what you want to do. Time code input is easier with the V4HD. I also use the original MXO for output, and it works well, but I haven’t tried the MXO 2 which added input capability.

Regards,
David

[David Smith]

Robert,

You can do this just fine with the 2.7GHz G5, I have one in my shop. Bob is absolutely correct that you will need some kind of in/out solution (I have the Kona LH in my box) and a black burst generator as well as the very expensive digi-beta deck.

Perhaps it might make more sense economically (both in direct cost and in the time it will take for you to learn how to set everything up, keep it running, keep it maintained…. etc) to do your reel edit in house on the G5 and then send a finished product via hard drive to a facility that can transfer it for you.

Or…. perhaps you should just let your company do what they do…. audio, and let the folks who have done this in the past continue to make some money and have a symbiotic relationship with your company. After all, they are the video experts, and maintaining a working relationship might be a good idea. They may need audio help at some point….. makes sense that they would come to you.

[David Smith]

[Liz de Planta] ”
So the issue at hand is that the timecode on my Z1 has stopped turning.”

Could you specify what you mean by this? What do you see, if anything, where the timecode numbers should be on the camera’s LCD display?

Is it possible you’re looking at User Bits instead of timecode? I don’t set Ubits, so on my Z1 if I hit the TC/U-bit button I see a row of zeros. The TC is there and can be seen by toggling the button again.

[David Smith]

[Tom Parke] “G-Tech confirmed that the two-meter eSATA cable will work”

I like the flexible eSATA cables. Easier to route in the field and less tension on the connectors. I’ve been using these successfully (scroll down the page to find the flexible ones):
https://www.satacables.com/html/esata-external-esata-shielded-.html

and these look interesting too:
https://www.meritline.com/esata-6ft-cable-blue.html