Dave Neyman
Forum Replies Created
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I think you should add one additional step. The external drive you offload to should be a raid 1 setup. That way you have some redundancy if one drive goes bad. If your external drive were to go bad you would lose the entire shoot. A raid may be more expensive but it is cheaper than having to reshoot. One that I use is the CalDigit VR Mini. It’s bus powered and seems to be pretty bulletproof.
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Jeremy outlined it very well. I’ve worked in the middle east and it is a pain. My philosophy for all locations is pretty simple. If I can afford to have my filming be shut down (or worse) and get kicked out, then I can risk doing it the simple way. If not, I always go to the trouble to do it right.
One additional note: Because of the security situations over there many of the governments have a censorship office. Upon your departure you have to declare that you have filmed nothing that would endanger their national security. They may want to see some of your footage. This was difficult when we used to shoot film. It’s obviously gotten a lot easier with digital video. Having the approval from this office always made it easier for me to get out without as much interrogation.
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The Video Clinic in Santa Monica
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You got me. I’m not sure why yours is not working. Mine works fine. My menus is as follows:
Rec Format
480i Record Mode
Rec Function
One Shot Time
Interval Time
Etc.The menu selection you want is INTERVAL TIME. Is it possible that you are looking at ONE SHOT TIME?
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Do the following:
1. Scene File – Set Operation Type to Video Camera
5. Recording Setup – Set Recording Format to 720P/60P
5. Recording Setup – Set Rec Function to Interval
5. Recording Setup – Set Interval Time
You need to do the math to figure out the best interval time. It depends on how fast you want it to play back.
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I have to chime in on this one. I am in full agreement with Steve. Too many people think they can just figure it out as they go. They assume that since the cost of the gear is minimal it must be as easy to use as a home video camera, just point and shoot. Suppose you were shooting 16 or 35 mm film. Would you hire a camera assistant or a loader who had no experience and was just going to figure it out once they start shooting? I wouldn’t. Why should this be any different? If done incorrectly you have the potential of losing an entire shoot with the touch of a button. If you place such a small value on your project then go for it.
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It should be much faster than that with a Duel Adapter but be aware that you have to reboot each time you plug it in and it can be quirky. I am experiencing about 12-14 minutes for a 16 GB card. Be sure to verify all your footage before you re-format your cards.
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A couple of rules I live by with this workflow.
Be sure that the hard drive that you transfer the P2 cards to is set up as a Raid 1 or “Mirrored” Raid. You can also copy the data to 2 different drive if you are set up that way. That way you are less likely to use data if a drive goes bad.
Always verify your P2 data before you re-format the P2 cards for use. You can use Shotput P2 or Shotput Pro for this but I also make it a habit of opening FCP and using the Log and Transfer window to check and make sure the transfered data on the drives is all reading fine.
Best of luck.
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Old cards will work fine. I just did the firmware upgrade because I bought 2 new 32 GB cards. Evrything works flawlessly. As previously stated, follow the instructions to a T.
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You might try Data Rescue II for Mac. I did the same thing and recovered all the data with great success. All the files were renamed but I was grateful I got them back. DO NOT write anything on your drive until you run the recovery as that could goof up the structure. If you are looking to recover any P2 card data you may be out of luck. The files need to be in a certain place in the folders and it would be almost impossible to recreate this info in all the right places. You may need a recovery company for this. Best of luck