Bouncing Account needs new email address
Forum Replies Created
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That’s one of the reasons why I never ever use Print to Video.
I just render the effects, MIXDOWN THE AUDIO, and play the timeline out to a tape.
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[angel breath] “It was actually for an art installation… So we beamed it onto something.”
Well, that certainly clears things up. Very technical. 😉
What is “beaming”?
What is the “something”? -
Small Iris opening (bright light) and Wide Angle results in the focus being sharp on ANYTHING… from a thousand feet away to dust and scuzz on the lens.
If you want to shoot in bright light (sunlight), take off the UV lens and replace it with a Neutral Density (ND) lens filter.
One with at least a couple of f-stops darkening ability, maybe more.The Iris will open up a bit, resulting in lesser depth-of-field which will reduce the chance of actually focussing on anything near (or ON) the lens.
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Where are you VIEWING these after the render?
You must only judge quality on an external video monitor, not on the computer monitor.
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Forgot to paste in the LINK to the little lens adapter I was describing.
Again, this is just to show you an example. I have no affiliation with the eBay lister.
(But the lister DOES have over 76 Thousand (!) feedback replies.)You’ll need to copy/paste the link into your browser address window.
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You said you wanted a FISH-EYE so only the second lens you listed is considered a “fish-eye”.
It brings in a very wide field-of-view with a lot of “bulging” distortion when you approach an object with the camera.
The distortion is also very apparent when you pan the shot or subjects move across a static shot.
It would be considered a “special effects” lens… very obvious as an “effected” shot.The first lens you listed is NOT considered a true “fish-eye” but rather a “wide-angle” (WA) lens adapter.
If you have the PD170, it comes STANDARD with a very similar Sony WA lens adapter, so you already know what this lens will do.
It increases the field-of-view by a much lesser amount and under most normal shooting conditions, the shot does not look to the viewer as “affected” or distorted. It is a very handy general shooting item.Century Optics lenses are well-respected for this segment of the production business.
They have greater precision than lower cost lenses.OTOH, there are many low-cost “trick” lenses that, if you just want them for a few “EFX shots” and aren’t too concerned with absolute “top quality”, will work pretty well.
I have one of the following (paste the link in your browser, its for example only) that I use every few months or so for a VERY wide pan or a Fish-eye CU effect.
Works great considering the bargain price. -
Or. just use the standard Mac “Find” function.
Click on the desktop, hit “Apple F”, type in the first few letters of the file’s name, and hit “enter”.
Unlike Avid files, FCP files have the same name in the Capture Scratch folder as in the Browser.
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Any 3rd party Plugins should be found on the Mac in:
Library >
Application Support >
Final Cut Pro System Support >
PlugIns (in this folder)Quit FCP, remove any plugins you don’t want from the above folder (store them elsewhere) and re-start FCP.
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[Tig Coates] “Clipped Peak Restoration? as part of noise reduction software
There are clipped peaks and then there are CLIPPED PEAKS!!!
Hard to say what can and can’t be “repaired” from out here in the vast COW pasture.Its more often the case than not to assume that a LINE-level feeding into a MIC input is pretty much destroyed.
(The noise-level alone is usually enough to wreck the track.) -
Photo-JPEG is not for viewing on an external monitor.
It is only for viewing on the computer screen.
It was initially designed you to allow you to edit a rough-cut on a Powerbook while away from a desktop Mac.