Bouncing Account needs new email address
Forum Replies Created
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If you don’t have a boom-operator, then your next-best choice is putting a lav mic on the actor.
The transmitter “box” of a wireless system does not make noise with movement (if you are not “out-of-range”) but its possible that the lav mic itself will pick up clothing noise if its not carefully placed on the actor.
There are several lav mics that can be connected to any brand of wireless transmitter that offer designs that reduce the incidence of clothing noise.
As an example, Google for “Tram microphone” and “Countryman microphone” and read the info at the links.
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Did you record on channels 3 & 4 on the camera?
If so, and the deck is set to play only channels 1 & 2, you obviously won’t hear anything.
You can go into the decks settings and change the playback channels.
If you are sending to an edit system via FireWire and the audio is on ch. 3 & 4, you’ll have to set the capture presets for that as well.
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The first thing to always try is to Quit FCP, Restart the Mac, Open your FCP project and try again.
Next:
THE FOLLOWING COMES FROM THE KEN STONE WEBSITE:
“Over 5,000 years ago Confucius wrote: ‘If you are toiling away, you have changed nothing and FCP heads South on you, [starts behaving in strange ways] then it is time to trash your FCP Preferences.’ ”Click the following link for instructions.
https://www.kenstone.net/fcp_homepage/trashing_fcp_prefs.html
A great way to do this is to use “FCP Rescue” a free Apple Script that will Trash the Preferences for you (and restore nearly all of your user settings afterward).
There are versions for FCP (Pro) & FCE (Express) and a new one for FCP 5.Download these free Apple Scripts at
https://fcprescue.andersholck.com/
This is one FCP tip that has helped in solving hundreds of “odd” problems.
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The obvious suggestion is to only capture using a camcorder that works.
Canons are notorious for problems regarding their non-standard audio sampling rates, but not to the point of “unusablity” as you describe.
But, as above, why not just put the tapes in a camcorder or deck that DOES work with FCP and capture from that?
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Don’t de-interlace.
Do add a small bit of Gaussian Blur (somewhere between .25 and 1.25).Very thin lines will always “dance”.
Its best to use thicker lines and/or add blur to soften them across TV scan lines. -
Drag any FCP Plug-ins into:
Library >
Application Support >
Final Cut Pro System Support >
PlugIns (put them in this folder)Quit FCP. Restart FCP.
If still no-go, then check file permissions.
“Get Info on the files in the Finder, and make sure they can be Read and Writable by All Users.
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Are you trying to edit with a FireWire control?
You can only INSERT on a deck with that function (some decks don’t have “insert” mode) and it must be under RS422 control from FCP (not FW).
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First, go into the D1000’s menu and scroll down to “A/V>DV OUT” and make sure it is in the “OFF” condition.
If it IS in the OFF condition and you still can’t get the FW connection to work, then it sounds like the jack in the back of the deck may be damaged (probably a bad internal connection due to “plugging and unplugging”).
To make sure this is the problem, just connect your camcorder (make sure to set the camcorder to output at DV, not HDV), or any other DV camcorder, to the deck via a FireWire cable and play a tape in the camcorder.
If the FW connection on the D1000 is OK, the deck will show the output from the camcorder on its screen.
If not (and you’re SURE its not a bad FW cable) then you either have a bad FW jack on the deck, or the deck has a bad internal FW section.
In either case, you’ll need Sony Service to repair it. ($$$). -
[William Meese] “I’ve experienced some drift over the duration of a song between a CD played back in the field versus in the studio.”
I’ve done this MANY times with the cheapest, up to the finest, gear.
While analog is “guaranteed” to drift,
properly operating digital playback and record is locked to a PPL quartz “clock” in even “toy” gear… there should be zero drift in even an hour’s time. (I just said 13 minutes in the previous example because that was the longest single cut in that program.)This does NOT take into account using weak batteries, or utilizing so much “wild camera swings” that it causes “gyro” problems with the heads (loses sync), or a “sticky” (or skipping) CD.
As to the “boom-box” not being loud enough… if this is a rock band, just plug the CD player into one of the guitar amps’ line inputs and “blast-away”.
BTW, you don’t need to start a NEW THREAD to respond to comments in a previous one… just add another post to the first thread. That way we will all be able to keep up with the whole conversation.
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In addition to Chris’ good suggestions…
Make sure your Capture Now is set to “Limit Capture Now to… 30 minutes or less.
Better yet, LOG an in-point and out-point on your selected clips and then use “Batch Capture”.
Many do not have good results with Capture Now.