Bob Peterson
Forum Replies Created
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Normalize is not very useful. If you have one loud noise, that loud noise will limit the volume increase that normalizing will produce. The quiet sounds will still be relatively quiet. The compressor does what you want although you may have to experiment a bit with the settings. Start with one of the presets, and adjust to suit your preferences. The compressor will get you a lot closer to a consistent volume. I ignore it if clipping occurs on something like clapping since no one will hear the clipping within the clapping sound. Once you are happy with the compressor setting, you can listen to the audio to find any excessive volume levels. A volume envelope can then take those out.
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Firewire ports can be blown very quickly and easily if you are not careful when connecting them. The equipment involved in a connection MUST be powered down before connections are made if you want to be sure you will avoid blowing a port. I use an external firewire based hard drive to connect my cameras. It is easy to power down the hard drive to make the connection.
One thing I have found is that sometimes the computer must be completely shut down and restarted before it will recognize particular firewire devices. My current problem child is a Cannon XL1 which frequently requires that approach. If that doesn’t work, you could try to connect the devices to an older computer to check their ports.
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Adding a genlock capability to the 5D, from what I’ve seen in video cameras, is a very expensive proposition. I certainly would not pay the substantial additional cost to obtain it. Without that, I think the whole game revolves around the camera recording some form of audio to allow synchronization. I don’t think that an NLE can help very much by trying to use very tenuous things like date and time as set by the user and then provided by the camera.
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Report the problem to Sony support, and use version 11 until it is fixed.
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I listen to both audio sources simultaneously via headphones. If I hear even a slight echo, I know that they are out of synch and can adjust accordingly. When adjusting, I zoom in very close on the sound tracks (probably to the frame level), and widen the track width displayed so that I can see the waveform very clearly.
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Your camera still must record the audio. It can use its own mic if necessary, but it must capture audio. You will need this in camera audio so that you can accurately synch the external audio to the video. Once synched, you simply null the camera’s audio track. If the external audio drifts out of synch, simply split the file at a quiet spot and move the audio back into synch.
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What kind of computer is it? My daughter’s portable has been shutting down more frequently in spite of her efforts to blow out the dust, so she took it in to get it cleaned. The shop is replacing both cooling fans.
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One simple way is to use a generated media solid black. You can mask it to make whatever shape you wish and move it around as you wish using the position control. Just put it on a track above your video.
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I have to disagree a bit here. The color corrector will do a pretty good job of white balancing the video image IF you can find white, neutral gray, and black in the image. That seems to be what the three color wheels are aimed at. Beyond that, they are not really precise enough to do good color correction.
Color curves are much more useful, but you need to think carefully about what you are doing and clearly understand how complementary colors work. The biggest problem is that Vegas does not give you any information about where a particular instance of color in the image lies on the color curve. I have started to have some success by using Vegas’s ability to place a snapshot of the image on the clipboard. I can then bring that image into Photoshop, and Photoshop will tell me where specific points lie on the color curve (i.e. by using a color curve in Photoshop). Using that information, I use the red, green, and blue curves in Vegas to make the color correction. For example, if I have a yellow caste in a portion of the video image, I can reduce the yellow (and the luminance) by bending the red and green curves down at the appropriate point on the curve, OR I can reduce the yellow while increasing luminance by bending the blue curve up at the appropriate point. The ability to center the adjustment at the correct point on the curve and shape the curve gives much better results than I have been able to achieve with the color corrector. You can, of course, also selectively cut or boost luminance for a specific tonal area using a curve. It is not quite as easy as using a slider to, for example, fill shadows, but it can still be done.
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I have downloaded, installed, and tested build 563. It HAS NOT resolved the issue. There are as many, perhaps more errors, than I saw before. Perhaps, I simply missed the additional errors in my previous testing since I am now looking at a different part of the screen. Also, I described the flickering issue as occasional. It is definitely not random. It simply needs a particular mix in the source material.
I am curious however regarding what caused you to think it was resolved. Did you see something in the release notes?