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First of all CALM DOWN getting upset is not going to fix any thing.

Run a head cleaner through the camera, and try a different brand of tape. Like I said you may have just gotten a bad batch, it happens.

If it still happens with different tapes, then defiantly look into getting the camera replaced if you just purchased it.

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Unfortunately if there is drop outs on the tape, that cannot be fixed.

Like I said before dropouts can happen no mater what tape stock you are using, perhaps you got a bad tape.

has the camera been used with other brands or tapes previously. One of my big rules is to ALWAYS use the same tape stock in the camera. Different brands of tape use different lubricants. Some dry and some oil based. Mixing these on the camera heads is not good.

Now I cant say that this is the cause, it is just a possibility.

Try shooting another tape, it could have just been a bad tape.

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Is that western digital also a USB drive? Is it the system drive? How full is the drive?

USB even USB 2.0 works in burst of data, not constant data so it is unsuitable for video work.

If you are capturing to your system drive, that can also cause dropped frames because you are already running the OS and Final Cut Pro From it, it has plenty to do already.

The reason I ask questions about hard drives, is because 9 times out of 10 when people post about dropped frames it is caused by them using ether the system drive, a USB drive, or a drive that is to full.

Douse it drop frames on the same frame each time? If so it is probably the tape. Just because you used better quality tapes douse not mean you will get no drop outs at all, they are just better quality so you will get less drop outs.

Drop outs can always happen.

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what type of drive are you capturing to

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When Apple says something then we well know. And I am sure that once something is said it will be all over the forums.

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When Apple says something then we well know. And I am sure that once something is said it will be all over the forums.

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[Aine] “en i go to Export – using quicktime conversion – options, i never know which compression to use under settings”

Don’t export using quicktime conversion, choose File – Export – Quicktime Movie and make sure you select current settings. This will output a file that is the exact same settings as your timeline thus preserving the quality you have.

[Aine] “Most importantly which one should you use to get the best quality but that will also fit onto your DVD and which is compatible with i DVD. “

Don’t use any of the options you listed for a DVD. Ether take your exported file and bring it into compressor or export directly from FCP using compressor, and use compressor to make your DVD ready files. Then bring those into DVD SP.

I always discourage professionals from using iDVD, and because these are professional forums I will assume you producing professional video.

WHY GIVE YOUR CLIENT A DVD THAT LOOKS EXACTLY LIKE THE ONE HIS 10 YEAR OLD KID JUST MADE. IT MAKES THE VALUE OF YOUR WORK LOOK BAD.

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Well first you need to differentiate between true HD and color accurate.

Technically any image that is larger then SD image size is True HD, and connecting through DVI to a HDTV technically douse give you an HD sized video. But it is by no means proper HD viewing especially for color correction.

For proper color correction you should send the video out through a Kona card or something similar. Or at the least a Matrox MXO.

Explain that a HDTV is not color calibrated and that anything connecting to a DVI port on the computer will not be color accurate. Different video cards will display colors slightly differently.

The big thing you should do first is distinguish between true HD and color accurate HD.

There have been plenty of posts about color accuracy that explain how it works, try a search.

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[Ed Dooley] “Compressor and DVDSP’s compression engine is the same thing. “

But you have more control using compressor.

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[Ed Dooley] “Compressor and DVDSP’s compression engine is the same thing. “

But you have more control using compressor.