Forum Replies Created
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I had hope. And hope is all you need.
Because I had got it in once, I knew it was possible, although this technique you shared didn’t work for me. I used the Easy Setup of DV PAL and opened the capture and log window. It behaved as before with no preview available. Under settings, I changed to non-controlable device. I pushed play on my camcorder. While still playing, I changed settings back to PAL firewire device and presto! it was showing up. so I just cue rewound and when I got to where I wanted to be I pressed play on the controls (in FCP, NOT on the deck) and clicked on Capture Now. Done.
so it is possible to get PAL footage without having a PAL deck or paying to have it converted.
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bring the master clip into the viewer. Mark in and out. Drag from the viewer into your bin.
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Trevor Ward
December 13, 2005 at 11:19 pm in reply to: photoshop file of a Television with transparency – tips?Yes, I checked out kinemac but I don’t want to spend any more money. My tv’s aren’t 3D and aren’t flying in and stuff. Cool program though.
I like my tip because I can keep the photoshop file as is and not “flatten” it. Because when you flatten it you lose your layers and that is not good.
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Trevor Ward
December 9, 2005 at 3:09 pm in reply to: photoshop file of a Television with transparency – tips?I figured out something really cool. I’ve hated working with Photoshop files with multiple layers because of the whole “it creates a sequence for you thing.” But, if you open that sequence, you can select one of the clips, which is actually one of the PS layers, and drag it to your main sequence and then do anything you want with it: make it longer in duration, move it around, etc.
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Go to audio/video settings:
Under Video Playback towards bottom of window, select Apple Firewire NTSC in the dropdown menu.
Then select APPLE F12 or go to View | External Video | All Frames.it should now play back on your camera and TV.
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Trevor Ward
December 8, 2005 at 11:07 pm in reply to: photoshop file of a Television with transparency – tips?Yeah, photoshop file is it’s own sequence. I don’t like that. It’s very awkward.
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Good trick Matte. I have one thing to add. I’m working on an instruction with 2 cameras. I suggest keeping your “main” camera on V2. the second camera below. And then sync them. Then, only put the cut clips on V3. This way you always have the orginal sync’d clips available. So V1 is camera 2, in full. V2 is camera 1 in full. V3 is camera 1 cut-aways.
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Trevor Ward
November 29, 2005 at 10:05 pm in reply to: any way to identify in the bin which clips are used in my timeline?thanks for all the replies. I used two of these techniques to do what I wanted.
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Trevor Ward
November 21, 2005 at 7:43 pm in reply to: You guys got a favorite plug in for speed ramp/change?You can do it directly in FCP under the motion tab of the clip. However, it’s not as straight forward as I’d like and it doesn’t seem intuitive to me (although, I took 4 years of advanced math in college and I think in terms of real math, not artists’ math).
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Green screen? What? it shouldn’t be that hard. I used the wall in my house for a video. The wall is painted off-white, sort of like japanese paper, a touch of cream. The wall is thick textured, so it’s not even flat. I used 2 250 Watt lights. I have a Lowell softbox (without the cover) and a lowel omni. I put the subject about 3 feet infront of the wall. I put the lights on either side of the subject, and angled a little towards the wall. I then adjusted the exposure until the wall was just clipping. I then moved the lights in close to the subject to make sure they were exposed well. If I had one more light, it would have been in front of the talent, and above and at a slight angle. then in post, I just added a filter (can’t remember which one), which sort of evened everything out perfectly.