[Tim Ward]

So far I seem to have narrowed it down to the AJA codecs (I have a Kona LHi and v12.1 codecs), and the Avid Quicktime LE codecs (I have v2.5.0).

Tim

[Tim Ward]

I had this too. Removed all codecs except ProRes from /Library/QuickTime and it helped. No more “Adobe QT32 Server Not Responding.” Now to isolate which specific codec(s).

Mac Pro 3,1
24GB
Premiere Pro 8.2/CC 2014.2

[Tim Ward]

But when you throw in up-conversion/down-conversion and letterbox/pillarbox, the picture height can be anywhere from 480 to 1080 to 360. 360 would be the case if the station has an HD channel, and up-converts/pillarboxes SD material, which is then down-converted and letterboxed by someone with a regular standard-def 4:3 TV receiving over-the-air, or through a cable/satellite provider. And WHO KNOWS if the HD channel will get center-cropped or letterboxed downstream for by the providers – or both, according to broadcast flags in the signal (if such a system is arranged between the local station and the cable/satellite provider). But as long as the FCC’s rules are followed (how do they measure against their specs anyway?)… *shrugs shoulders*

Tim

[Tim Ward]

Nice post, Richard.

[Tim Ward]

[Chuck Pullen] “You may want to check into a device called “PhatCat” by Laird. “

Totally forgot about PhatCat! It uses Cat-5 cable. But a Google search
shows the pricing is unfortunately similar to a new 100ft 26-pin cable. Yeah, I agree the used dealer path is the way to go.

[Tim Ward]

[Andrew Morales] “Ok. Could you tell me if there is a place where I could find some type of connection for a 4-pin XLR DC cable? Where one end goes into a wall outlet and the other into the camera.”

You have to use a DC power supply designed for this type of equipment. You won’t really find them cheaper than this one.

Forgive me, but from your posts above, it would seem you are inexperienced in working with studio cameras. If you don’t already have RM-M7 paintboxes for each camera, it would be way cheaper to just buy the 26-pin cable. If you DO have them, I’d advise you to enlist/hire someone’s services with expertise in studio design to help you with this project (local TV station engineer, perhaps).

My bottom-line advice for using these cameras is to get someone to help you and be prepared to spend a little money for cabling. I’m saying this as nicely as I can so maybe you won’t feel the “wrath” of Bob Zelin if he stops by here. 🙂

Now…there may be another solution altogether. Please describe (as much detail as possible) where you are (location/school/local-access), what facilities you have, what you’re trying to accomplish and teach, and what kind of budget you have to work with.

[Tim Ward]

[Andrew Morales] “But, the camera cannot connect to the CCU via 10 pin is what you are saying. Is that correct?
“

Yes, correct. It’s only used to connect to an outboard device like the RM-7.

[Tim Ward]

I forgot to add that the RM-7 can be used directly with the DXC-M7 or to extend the CCU-M7’s controls to another location, such as a camera shader’s position.

[Tim Ward]

Sorry about the confusion Andrew…I read the wrong thing regarding the RM-7 – it IS a 10-pin connector (not 8-pin), as I just verified with one in my hand. That connector you highlight is for the RM-7, NOT for connecting the camera to the CCU. My above post is correct, except the 8/10-pin part.

[Tim Ward]

The M7 is 26-pin only. The “10-pin” connector you refer to is probably the 8-pin Remote connector used for the RM-7 remote control panel, or paint box. For studio use (connecting to a CCU), you need the 26-pin (CCZ) cables. These cameras are analog, so you don’t need the “digital”-labeled cables, unless they’re cheaper.

There may be an alternative that uses the RM-7 instead of the CCU, bundled with a coax cable for genlock, a 4-pin XLR cable for power, a 3-pin XLR cable for beltpack-intercom, another coax cable for a teleprompter, and yet another coax cable for the camera’s composite video output, a 2-conductor cable that drives the add-on tally light that you’ll have to purchase/build to put on the camera (since you can’t use the built-in light)…I may have left out one or two others, but it’s a mess and the cost savings may not be that great compared to just purchasing 26-pin CCZ cables, which you might be able to find in good shape on eBay.