Thaxter Clavemarlton
Forum Replies Created
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[Kevin] “what’s the deal with the titling?”
Didn’t you click on the link?
https://www.creativecow.net/articles/hodgetts_philip/titles/index.html
Its very informative.
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If your source and sequence were DV and you exported with “current settings”, the QT movie is identical to the DV source (titles must be created very carefully to yield the best quality.)
https://www.creativecow.net/articles/hodgetts_philip/titles/index.html
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[Zeeton] “I’m ready to pitch this amateuristic piece of junk against the wall and go back to a professional edit system! Please help!”
What a great way to get professionals who make their living with this “junk” to give you free advice and help in using it.
At any ratae all you need to do is connect FCP via…
Whoops, there goes the phone, good luck!
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Re-shoot the same “song” several times (say, 3 to 8 times) and cover different angles and players on each take. (This is called shooting “one-camera film-style”.)
Do take the feed from the mixer for audio.
Cut to ONE audio track but match the video from multiple takes to create a “multi-camera” end product.
No need to use the 1-CCD home unit if you cover the takes well with your good camera.
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“Sync-slippage” can happen during some longer captures.
To avoid it, break your captures into sections no longer than about 10 minutes each.
You can then “reconstruct” the full tape’s recording (or any longer takes) quickly if you need to.
Mark (and log) your first clip to End (Out-point) about 10 minutes or less from its In-point.
Continue to mark (and log) your clips this way throughout the rest of the tape.
Just make sure the In-points of the subsequent clips are EXACTLY ONE FRAME LATER than the Out-points of the previous clips.You can do all this while actually scanning the tape(s) or just by inputting arbitrary TC numbers, logging them… then use Batch Capture to bring in all of your clips.
Its very easy to then “reconstruct” the shorter clips back to any “continuous” length you want on the timeline by just “clicking” them on in order.
EVEN FASTER… select ALL successive clips at once in the browser (with the browser column-order set to “Media Start” highlight all clips) and drop them, all at once, on the timeline… they’ll all pop up in continuous order. -
[Lee Burrows] ” I have an interview that was shot in stereo outside and you can easily hear the cars passing by in the background mixing in with the interview.”
Without hearing this track I can’t say for sure, but if its too bad you might just have easily said that you have a recording of traffic noise and there is the sound of an interview easily heard as well.
No filter can restore a poorly recorded audio track filled with random and non-continuous noise.
A HISS, a HUM, a RUMBLE, that is continuous, easily isolated sound.
“SoundSoap 2” from BIAS or the new APPLE “Soundtrack” can help remove those kinds of noises by sampling them and “masking” their frequencies.But non-continuous noise that is at or near the same frequencies as the WANTED audio (like dogs barking, traffic noises, others talking in the track, and REVERB) can’t be helped very much.
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Hope the iMovie solution works.
Back to the analog question.
When given a choice, always go with true S-Video rather than composite.
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AND…
Switch the capture preset to “NON-CONTROLLABLE DEVICE” and just use “Capture Now” as you manually play the tape near and over the bad section(s).
Do this numerous times until you (might) get a better-playing section into FCP. -
Best digital capture bet is to just keep trying to capture the same small area over and over.
One of the passes might prove to get (more of) what you need, then edit that good section in.
If you can get the analog input to WORK, just edit in the missing small area (enough to not look or sound too “obvious” and the quality should be fine enough for “patch-work.”
(Good grief, until just a few years ago EVERYTHING was analog and no one “passed out” from using the process!) -
Educated guess:
First, remove any power source form the camera (AC supply or battery).
Then, remove the “Back-Up Battery” CR2025 (about the size of a US quarter).
The holder for this battery is found UNDER the camcorder near the lens (see page 99 of the XL1 manual).
Leave this battery it out of the camera for at least 30 minutes (go to the store and buy a NEW CR2025).Install the fresh CR2025 battery, connect a power source (AC supply or battery) to the camera and try readjusting the “AE shift”.
Please let us know the outcome.