[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

Since its B-Roll and you were not given any specific instructions…

Bars & Tone- (30 to 60 sec.)

Slate- with Title of shot/event, date recorded or edited, and running time.
(and YOUR contact info, if you like)

Program material- (B-Roll)

There are as many ways of doing this as there are “opinions”.

Without any specifics, just do it.

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

You can only capture 2 audio tracks at a time.
You can set the capture preset to Audio 1 & 2 -or- Audio 3 & 4.

BUT, 12 bit/32k does not mean that there ARE 4 tracks RECORDED, it is just that the tape is capable of HOLDING 4 tracks… if you RECORDED 4 tracks.

32 kHz and 12 bit are the same setting in DV.
48 kHz and 16 bit are the same setting in DV.

There is no 32 KHz/16 bit format. Its not possible with DV audio.
———————-

“Sync-slippage” can happen during some longer captures.

Tapes recorded on certain camcorders from Canon have been somewhat more problematic but it also can happen with other brands of cameras as well.

To reduce the problem on capture, break your captures into sections no longer than about 10 minutes each.

You can then “reconstruct” the full tape’s recording (or any longer takes) quickly if you need to.
Mark (and log) your first clip to End (Out-point) about 10 minutes or less from its In-point.
Continue to mark (and log) your clips this way throughout the rest of the tape.
Just make sure the In-points of the subsequent clips are EXACTLY ONE FRAME LATER than the Out-points of the previous clips.

You can do all this while actually scanning the tape(s) or just by inputting arbitrary TC numbers, logging them… then use Batch Capture to bring in all of your clips.

Its very easy to then “reconstruct” the shorter clips back to any “continuous” length you want on the timeline by just “clicking” them on in order.
EVEN FASTER… select ALL successive clips at once in the browser (with the browser column-order set to “Media Start” highlight all clips) and drop them, all at once, on the timeline… they’ll all pop up in continuous order.

Also read this link:
https://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=58640
It contains more “sync-loss” info.

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

You need to adjust the speed of your clips BEFORE they are edited to the timeline.
But you can solve this problem afterwards by adjusting the matching “original” clip(s), then editing these newly adjusted clips to replace the one(s) on your timeline.

On the timeline: Put the cursor on the FIRST FRAME of the clip you want to Slo-Mo or Fast-Mo.
But do NOT double-click IT into the viewer, but hit CMD-OPT-F (Match Frame to Source File) … this loads a ‘temporary’ copy of the real “original” so a “match-frame” appears in the Viewer.

Then, adjust the speed of the clip in the Viewer (Cmd-J) to any percent you want.

Next, on the timeline, use REPLACE to change-out the regular-speed clip with the newly speed-adjusted version.

Your other clips will all stay in place.

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

Select (highlight) ALL of the audio tracks at once.

Then choose Modify (menu) > Levels > -6 (relative) > OK.

If -6 is not quite right “undo” that command and choose a different level setting.

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

You need to RENDER all effects at the highest quality setting.

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

Try this:

https://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=301852

FWIW, I swore I’d never EVER buy ANOTHER product with the Canon name plate after the ABYSMAL reliability of the CCD chips (“hot pixels”), grainy images, and non-standard audio clocks in their camcorders.

I actually TRASHED my Canon PRINTER (and bought another brand) so I would not give them any more money even for ink cartridges…
after my GL1 exhibited 3 hot pixels days after the warranty expired.

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

Have you opended ALL of the doors on this thing?
Are you SURE you checked every switch?

Front and back?

Man, its been years since I had one of these.

There’s always the “RF out” (Ch. 3 or 4) but I think I made some “burned-in TC window dubs” to VHS from this unit from the composite out.

Don’t remember having to jump thru hoops to do it.

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

Oh yeah, I had one of those.

It really had low-quality playback, too.

But there is a remote control for it (its both WIRED and wire-LESS).

Could be the the ability to switch the characters to On-Screen was on that.

Could be that you CAN’T switch the characters to On-Screen at all (I juist can’t remember).

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

It prbably means what we already knew…

VHS is NOT a clean medium.
It is one of the least stable video formats ever.

You’ll get much better results if you send the VHS through a digital “Frame Sync/TBC”.

The image will still likely “jiggle”, but it won’t “tear-up” the sync like what’s happening to you now.

VHS can be subject to severe TIMEBASE errors (video NOT playing at the standard and constant frame-rate).
A monitor can usually compensate for these, but they can wreak havoc when trying to dub to another video device (which is attempting to record the video frames at a more precise and constant speed.)

The best way to dub a tape with poor stability is to connect its deck through a true timebase corrector (TBC) and/or frame sync device (with a large enough “window” to compensate for the non-standard source.

Or, if you have access to a small digital “Video Mixer” (more precisely called a digital Video SWITCHER),
Panasonic, Videonics (now called Focus) and DataVideo all offer these units.
The switchers can act as effective TBCs because they use internal digital clocks to “create” a stable video signal even from from various “un-sync’ed sources.
So you can feed your unstable VHS (or other source) into the switcher and send the switcher’s “stable” output to your DV deck.

Panasonic:
https://www.studio1productions.com/vid102.htm
https://www.studio1productions.com/vid100.htm
and others

Focus:
https://www.focusinfo.com/products/mx-4/mx4.htm
https://www.focusinfo.com/products/mx4dv/mx4dv.htm

And the best of the bunch, DataVideo:
https://www.datavideo-tek.com/products/se_800_main_page.htm

Certain of these video switchers can usually be rented from companies that set-up “Hotel Ballroom Events” in most cities.

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

[fXholt] “Thanks for the response! Unfortunately, this DV deck only has sync IN, so I can’t loop the reference back out. The two dekcs do have S-VHS in/out but same prob.”

Well, send the compoisite out from the VHS to sync in on the DV and then send the S-Video from the VHS to the S-Video on the DV. The sync will come from the VHS.