Thaxter Clavemarlton
Forum Replies Created
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Panasonic:
https://www.studio1productions.com/vid102.htm
https://www.studio1productions.com/vid100.htmVideonics:
https://www.focusinfo.com/products/MXProDV/mxprodv.htmAnd the best of the bunch, DataVideo:
https://www.datavideo-tek.com/products/se_800_main_page.htmThe DataVideo and the Videonics MXDV PRO have FireWire inputs and outputs so if you use a FW camera(s) to shoot live, you can STAY in DV digital for the entire path.
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Do a Mac search (apple-f, from the Finder/desktop) for “Autosave Vault”.
When you find that folder, look in it for the project that you are working with.
Locate the newest version of your project (there are TIMES in the title) and open it.Look for the sequence you’re missing.
You can try opening earlier versions as well. -
Thaxter Clavemarlton
June 13, 2006 at 6:13 pm in reply to: help me…please! (very stupid audio question)1. You do NOT want to “combine them”. (Once you do that, you’ll never get them “apart” at a later stage of production.
You can export the audio as multi-channel (two, in this case) and you should.2. FCP will increase by 12 dB with doing anything “special” (the audio sliders will “increase” by 12 dB).
But if you still want MOREthan that… Add the Audio Filters > Apple > AUPeakLimiter and adjust the “Pre-gain” to any level you want. -
OR… use “needle-nose” pliers and carefully PULL the connection-disk out of the housing.
There are so many different brands of XLR’s and they are ALL DIFFERENTLY BUILT.
Each kind has its own way of screwing together.Amphenol is my favorite.
It has a small set-screw that is threaded BACKWARDS, so if you try to UN-SCREW it, it is designed to rotate deeper INTO the housing (to allow the “connnections” to come out).
It works great (you cant lose the tiny screw), but its just STRANGE the first time you encounter it. -
Push a straightened coat-hanger wire (or very thin screw-driver) into the cable end of the connector (wiggle it in between the cable and the rubber strain-relief gasket) and use it to push the disk with the connections out the end of the housing.
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Thaxter Clavemarlton
June 8, 2006 at 12:56 am in reply to: audio crackles and pops ONLY in the sequence not in the viewerAre the “converted” files made into 16bit, 48 kHz clips?
If that’s what your timeline audio is set for, that’s what they should be.
I use QuickTime Pro or iTunes to convert “other format” audio files into 16bit, 48 kHz clips that work well in FCP.
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[RJ] “Should I run a cleaning tape on the camcorder? Could it be that simple?”
Well, it COULD be. Try it. (But only play the cleaner for UNDER 10 seconds.)
But if you DO need to REPLACE your mini-camera, I have had GREAT luck buying used miniDV “home video” camcorders and using them as spare “decks” and A-to-D-to-A video/audio converter “boxes”. I have bought MANY of these little gems at local Pawn Shops for UNDER $175 each (some for $99).
AND… If you choose a SONY or PANASONIC camcorder (except for the earliest-built versions of the Sony VX1000), those two brands will ALSO playback perfectly any DVCAM-recorded mini DV tapes as well as DV SP and DV LP (yikes!). -
If this is a DV tape…
The recommended way to “save” these broken TC tapes is to FireWire dub from the original to a new tape. Under most conditions this will result in continuous TC on the dub (if you’re using a deck, make sure it it set for INTERNAL TC.) Most camcorders ignore the TC on the original tape anyway and always generate their own. You would then only capture the newly dubbed tape.
The new tape will be a perfect quality match to your first one AND… have continuous TC.
You would then mark and capture the second tape instead of the first one. -
That site’s download is dead, Tom.
Here you’ll find V4 and V5.
https://pistolerapost2.com/fcprescue/
Use the one that works for your setup.