[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

I figured up what this list of gear would cost new (something you can easily do using Google) and it comes to around $1200-$1400.

Yes, it looks like some useful stuff.
Assuming everything works as it should, and if you can get it for a low enough price (only you and the seller can figure that out), have at it.

(My psychic powers tell me the Reserve price is around $850.)

BTW, the seller said something that struck me as ODD…
“We are selling this because after much deliberation the decision has been made to go completely wireless, but this kit is absolutely perfect for the filmmaker that wants a versatile system and quality audio but doesn’t want to break the bank.”

There is no reason this gear could not be used to feed a wireless transmitter.
But I’m guessing by “wireless” he means to say “wireless lavaliere body mics” (requiring no boom operator.)

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

Uh… what deck IS it?

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

[Sebastian] “As I have never done a Log and Capture before I am looking for advice as to what the easiest way to Log and Capture under these conditions. “

You BEST way is to FIRST record the Hi8 onto a DV tape in your Canon, then capture the DV copy.
Put the Canon into the VCR mode.
Put a new DV tape in the Canon.
Plug the audio out from the Hi8 into the audio connectors on the Canon.
Plug the video out from the Hi8 into the video connector on the Canon
(Its MUCH better if you use the S-Video connectors).
Start playing the Hi8 tape and hit Record on the Canon.
It will be more stable, you will have Timecode, and you will not lose any quality.
After you’ve made the copy, Just capture the DV tape into FCP.

—————————————————————–
OTOH-

If you want to capture DIRECTLY (IMHO, not as safe a way to do it)…
Set up the same way as above, but don’t put a DV tape in the Canon.

Open Log and Capture > Capture Settings > Device Control: Non-Controlable Device
Clip Settings > Capture: Aud + Vid Audio Format: Stereo
Logging > start playing the Hi8 tape and hit “Capture Now”

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

View )menu) > Audio Scrubbing > (check)

Or

Hit Shift -S

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

[Chris Poisson] “Get FCP Rescue and you won’t have to trash prefs anymore.”

Right you are, Chris.

But WAIT, that’s not all…

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So you don’t forget, get “FCP Rescue” before Midnight tonight.
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And you’ll be “Trashing Preferences Without Guilt” RIGHT AWAYYYYY!!

Back to YOU, Chris.

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

[Dave Sullivan] “If you are exporting the movie from FCP, try unchecking ‘make movie self-contained’ “

That selection has no direct effect on quality.
(Although if you DO check it, it might be “easier” for the computer to access.)

If you do CHECK the make “self-contained” box:
FCP creates an ENTIRE export (a COMPLETE new QT file that has all finished clips) that can be played independently of the original captured clips.
This means that, if saved, it will always play (or can be used to burn a DVD) as the complete finished project even if you remove the original captured clips from your computer.
(This does take up more disk space and takes longer to export.)

If you UN-check the make “self-contained” box:
FCP only creates a REFERENCE export (an INcomplete QT file that does NOT self-contain all the clips). It can be ONLY be played (or used to burn a DVD) IF the original captured clips are still ON the disk(s).
So it will work for “now” but may not play in the future if you remove any clips used in it.
(This takes up less disk space and takes less time to export.)

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

This works for me:
Open Log & Capture

1. Create and enter into the Log a “dummy” clip for EACH of the REELS in your set.
(This will create a listing of that Reel as being used in this FCP project.)

2. For all of the clips that are from “Reel #2” (whatever you called your reel #2):
In the “REEL” Column in the Browser
Shift-Click on each of the clips for THAT reel (Each and all will become highlighted).

3. Hold down the Control key then, hold down the Mouse Button on one of the selected clips.
(You’ll see a list of all of the reels in this project.)

4. Select the proper Reel Name with the cursor and release the mouse key.

(If a dialogue box appears asking you if you DO want to change the Reels selected, answer OK.)

All of the selected clips will now have the new name.

Repeat for all additonal reel name changes.

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

Does the footage look good in FCP, but bad on the DVD?

For the PD150P via FW you should be using the “DV PAL” Easy Setup for FCP.

Are you trying to export from FCP directly to Compressor?

It should be better if you don’t.

Just open your edit in FCP then choose:

File (menu) > Export > Quicktime Movie > Current Settings, Audio and Video, do not check Make Movie Self-contained.

Then, just drop THAT new exported file directly into iDVD and let that software compress it.

If you are using DVD Studio Pro, you should choose to use the QT Movie file you EXPORTED (and not try to send directly to Compressor from FCP.

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

[videoservices@tvb.ca] “Now if I were to apply this kind of half-assed video muxing to FCP…could I not in theory take a video file, place them one on top of each other, raise the reds on one, and the blues on the other while fading them both so that they both become visible on screen…

Now i know that this will result in a very unusual video image…but will this crazy idea actually create the impression that the video is 3D? “

Not enough to notice.
Without any left-right DIFFERENCE between the “red scene” and the “blue scene”
there would be no depth to SEE.

You COULD try making the two colored “scenes” be off-set in TIME by a frame or two.

But I guessing that you’d have just about as much “success” by having the viewers simply put on the red/blue glasses at a given point in the video and TELLING them it was 3D… OOOH–AHHHH!

This is similar to the problem of wanting to create a “broad sound-stage” STEREO audio from only a mono source.
There are ways to “comb-filter” and/or “reverb” the single track and send it to the 2 channels, but what you’re left with is still a very flat, non-directional (and somewhat “muddied”) track.

[Thaxter Clavemarlton]

Am I understanding you that the footage you are going to use was NOT SHOT in 3D…
or do you have some film or video that WAS already shot in a 3D situation?

If the original footage is standard “flat” footage, you simply CAN’T make it into 3D, there is no 3D “information”.

If the original footage WAS shot in 3D, then its important to know the 3D format of the footage.

Can you give us more info?