Terje A. bergesen
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That is very cool… would you mind posting the .veg?
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If you burn it to DVD, burn it as NTSC, PAL-land DVD players and TVs have no problem with NTSC disks in general. Typically PAL-land people wouldn’t buy a player-TV combo that wouldn’t play the DVDs they buy at amazon.com.
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This type of stuff is one of those very rare times when I revert back to Ulead Media Studio. It has a few filters and transitions of this kind that are not present in Vegas. I am not sure you could easily do it in Vegas, at least not as easily as throwing on a transition like this (created in 30 second, not with the sound though…):
https://terje.bivrost.com/tv.mp4
Sorry I can’t be of more help.
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[cdmanproductions] “P.S. is there a program that will let me convert the dvd file to avi with out loosing any of the quality?”
Try: https://www.doom9.org/
and https://www.videohelp.com/Disclaimer, copying DVD’s, even for personal use, may or may not be legal where you live. Consult the appropriate Prairie Dog, Possum or similar authority on all matters legal.
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[Dave Felder] “China is a PAL country, so make the DVD using the PAL templates.”
As with all other PAL countries, DVD players in China (in my experience) play NTSC DVDs fine. Since recoding an NTSC DVD to PAL will change resolution, aspect ratio and frame-rate, I would expect (possibly minor) reduction in quality if you shoot in NTSC and create a PAL DVD.
Create a DVD in the same format you shoot in. If you shoot NTSC, make an NTSC DVD. It will work fine in China or any other PAL country.
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[Jeremy Rochefort] “Your quality will obviously be much less than minidv but forwhat you require”
Nope, it won’t. Digital8 and DV is essentially the same format, just different tapes. The quality is the same as from an equivalent DV camcorder.
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How I render depends a little bit on what I render and what I want the result to be. A lot of the time I render from Vegas.
I never, ever render as Real, everybody hates Real. They were doing so much monkey business with their player for a while that a lot of people refuse to install it. Also, there is no compelling technical reason to render to Real.
I render to either VMW, H.264 or DivX, depending. If I want to render at the best possible quality for Windows only I render to VMW using the Microsoft tools. I first render to DV-AVI in Vegas and then convert using the Microsoft tools. This is because they give you the most flexibility. If I need a decent render for a Windows only audience, I render to VWM from Vegas.
If I want to render to a slightly bigger audiende I render to DivX either from Vegas direct or using the DivX tools.
Lately I have come to appreciate the H.264 codec, and realizing this will probably be the standard for internet delivery going forward, I now render to that a lot. Actually at least 75% of what I share now is in H.264.
You can use a number of tools for that. Vegas will export to H.264 – “Choose Sony AVC/AAC” from the render dialog, but it is somewhat limited in what it supports with regards to output size and bitrate. You can render using Apple Quicktime Pro 7, but quite frankly, the Apple H.264 encoder is pure junk. There is also Nero Digital (about $29) that does a decent job of encoding. I use x.264 which is a pain to use onles you are very tech savvy. x.264 is free.
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Having just finished my move to a new system, here are my thoughts… If have kept an eye on bang for buck here… if bang is all-important and buck is irrelevant some of the advice can be ignored 🙂 Remember that a lot of the reviews out there are focused on gaming, some of what is good for games is good for video editors (fast CPU, fast RAM) some of it is completely irrelevant (fast, SLI/Crossfire graphics cards).
Note on speed improvement. I upgraded from a Pentium IV running at 2GHz with 1G of memory to an Athlon 64 X2 4400+ with 1G of memory. Tested it on a project that took about 2 hrs 15 minutes to render on the Pentium, came down to 25 minutes on the Athlon. I assume this will improve a little this weekend when I get to tune the Athlon, the memory and the MOBO a little.
CPU: Athlon FX60
I went with the Athlon 64 X2 4400+. My reasoning is as follows. The CPU has 2x1MB L1 Cache, compared to 2x512K for the 3800+ and the 4400+. This should actually make it slightly faster than the 4600 (see below). I did not go with the FX60 simply because it doesn’t add enough bang for the rather significant buck. I figure I can make my 4400+ give me as much bang (see below). In short, this is probably one of the best bang/buck ratios right now, particularly with the MOBO below and some over-clocking.MOBO: Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe
This is a very good motherboard, particularly for gaming. This was my initial choice for motherboard until the Anandtech review of the Asus A8R-MVP. There is some debate over SLI vs Crossfire for dual graphics cards, but if you are going to use your PC for video editing and not for intense gaming, this is an irrelevant discussion. You are not going to make use of neither Crossfire nor SLI.A very important reason for me going with the MVP board was over-clocking. I bought the 4400+ which is the same CPU as the 4800+, but clocked slightly lower. This means that I can overclock it similarly and get the 4800 for a somewhat lower price. I can overclock it some more and go to FX60 performance and beyond… I haven’t tried this yet, but Anandtech got some very nice results.
Please note that if you do go with this board though, that you should upgrade the BIOS immediately and also the network drivers. The on-board Gigabit Ethernet card works fine, but it does need the latest drivers from the Network Card manufacturer. The drivers are not yet on the Asus website.
Again, the MVP MOBO gives a lot more bang for the buck than the SLI-Deluxe, unless you are concerned about high-speed gaming.
Video Card: PNY nVidia Quadro FX 540
Seems like a very good choice. I don’t need HD out, so I went with the Asus Geforce 6600 Silencer (no fan = quiet) which has VGA out, DVI out and S-Video for my TV. It runs my 21″ HP CRT very well. The DVI should run any LCD, I haven’t tried it. I have also not yet connected it to my TV yet to see that output, so I can’t comment on that. The card is $97.Optical Drives: Dual Plextor PX716A or 716SA DVD burners
These I think I would advice against. They get pretty bad reviews on Newegg and other places.Whether you go with an ATA or SATA interface for your optical drive isn’t terribly important. I chose ATA since I don’t want to tie up any of the SATA interfaces for that. I want to leave those for harddrives. I got two 250G drives, considering getting a third and setting it up in a RAID-5 solution. There is no real drawback to going with an ATA interface for your optical drive.
With the cost of Lightscribe optical drives being down, I would consider one of those. The Lightscribe labeling looks very cool, but you do need to label the disk twice (or thrice) with most of these drives. When you do it looks very cool though.
Monitors: …Samsung 940BF is a highly regarded 19″ LCD
You don’t really need 2ms seconds response time with an LCD for video editing. This is a gaming monitor more than anything else. An LCD with 6ms response time (and even more probably) should be great for editing.Now, if you can find the monitor, and you can get it for the price that I have seen claimed, $370, it seems like a bargain.
The “consensus” among the users though seem to be that the 19″ LCDs give very little bang for the buck since they typically have the same resolution as the 17″ ones. I’d opt for a 20-21″ LCD with higher resolution and (to keep cost under control) slower response time if I could get it in the same price range.
Given a choice… the Apple 30″ LCD 🙂
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Quite frankly, the only on-line photo store I trust these days are B&H.
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Looking at Vegas 6, there is no way to see on the menu if QTF is on or not. There is an image, no check box.
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Terje A. Bergesen