Steve Roberts
Forum Replies Created
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“Above” … “first” … same thing, but redundancy is good.
Timothy! Read my post again! 🙂Effect>distort>transform is soooo useful. For example, if you want to flop a layer but still be able to scale it up or down normally, use the aforementioned effect to scale x to -100, Y to 100. Then you can scale normally with abandon.
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Have you tried turning the image upside down first? Try applying distort>transform first, to rotate it 180 degrees.
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Indeed.
If the matte paintings were not done with brushes and oils, then your answer would be “some kind of complicated 3D software, it doesn’t matter which, but it takes a long time to become skilled enough to get such beautiful results”.
As the story goes, a man and his son approached the great photographer Edward Steichen at a show of his work. The man asked Steichen what camera he used. Taken aback, Steichen answered, “why .. I use a Leica.” The man walked away and said to his son, “see son, I’ll buy you a Leica, so you can take pictures just as good as Mr. Steichen’s.”
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Make it simple and clean for now. Your name should be biggest, but don’t try to fill the card with text: that looks amateurish and “horsey”. Don’t go overboard with fancy stuff. Maybe make your name in red, the rest in black. If it’s nice and clean, print it and off you go. The next one can be better.
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Effect>time>posterize time, set to a low frame rate?
Or yes, you could use Time Remapping, with hold keyframes at the ends of each movement. Look for tutorials on it, but keep this in mind: the value of the time remapping effect at any given time is the frame of video currently being displayed. So, if you’re looking at the time remapping graph, a flat plateau indicates a freeze-frame, because the value (displayed frame) is not changing. A slope up and to the right indicates forward playback, and down to the right indicates reversed playback.
Be prepared for a lot of experimentation here until you get it right. If you need to start over, just delete time remapping from the layer and start over by applying it again.
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Thanks.
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Hm. Thanks.
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Sounds like a job for Shatter. Make a movie (or precomp) of the dots exploding away, then reverse it. The caveat is: you don’t have total control over the movement of the dots. If your client wants that, he/she will have to spring for you to place every dot on a layer.
In addition to the original graphic, you’ll need:
1) an image to indicate what shatters (I might use the original illustration, but with some black glow applied to fatten each dot.
2) a gradient to indicate what breaks away first (comes in last). This gives you some control over the assembly of the dots.Others are more knowledgeable that me. Check the help as well.
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… or you could work in an HD comp, then drag that into an SD comp, render that, then compress.
Jon, is the purpose of VBR to lower the bitrate below the CBR bitrate whenever it can for space concerns? So on a DVD where there are no space concerns, go with CBR?
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1. Use 23.976. That is correct: 29.97 x 24/30. The other is not correct, but Apple seems to ignore us AE people because they keep calling it 23.98. It’s 23.976 no matter what Apple says.
2. For SD DVD you have two choices NTSC DV 720×480 preset, NTSC DV 720×480 widescreen preset. Do not use square pixels. T o make it look normal on the computer as you work, turn on Pixel Aspect Ratio Correction — check the Help.
3. If you like it, use it.
4. In compressor, I use the 90-minute DVD MPEG-2 preset. The cropping is not a compressor issue, it may be a DVD authoring issue. If it’s widescreen, your DVD should be authored for 16:9.
5. Make a DVD and test it on a TV with set-top DVD player, or whatever the DVD playback device is (set-top or computer).