Rob Dunford
Forum Replies Created
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bags from KT Systems near Southampton.
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Hi Paul, TBH I didn’t install my Hirose in the best place. I drilled a hole in the Timecode cover plate, so that kinda makes it tricky to install T/C now. I have seen a better place on another modified FR2, this is the hole left behind when the plastic cable holder is taken off. Not 100% sure of the dimensions etc, but the hole may just need some filing out to take the Hirose socket. Then ask the shop to wire it in to the 12v power socket just below. That way you keep both power sockets….
Maybe we can do some deals…..I want to sell my FR2 and my 302, but I was going to sell the units separately along with their cases. Maybe if you are interested I can sell you the cases and the 302. Then you would have a nice package for both items. My FR2 case has a battery compartment and a velcro strip to take the 302 case. If you are interested maybe we can talk about prices. Whereabouts in the NW do you live? I have a mate in York, he could act as a go-between if York is not that far from you.
My number 07895643372. -
https://uk.farnell.com/hrs-hirose/hr10-7p-4p-73/circular-connector-plug-4-way-cable/dp/1077702
On the same page is a panel socket to mate with the plug. Does that help?
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looks like PM isn’t available. 01761 471 355
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I saw the mod at a hire company called Bettersound in London. It’s definitely not a mod for the average DIY’er, but find a local PC shop that does repairs and I’m sure they can sort out the FR2….that’s what I did for mine. It’s not that difficult, you take the positive and ground connections off the 12v input up to the Hirose. You can PM me and I’ll send you my details. Don’t especially want to put my email here.
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Hi Paul, I’d like to help you where I can.
I recently bought a SoundDevices 552 mixer/recorder to replace my FR2/SD302 combo, I’d recommend the 552 but I realise it may be out of your reach.
I loved my old combo, the 302 is the top mixer for small productions. The FR 2 is also a very useful recorder but as you say the battery life sucks. If you have the time code card fitted, I’d recommend unscrewing the cable holder just above the 12v input and drilling that out to take a Hirose connector, using same as that SD recommends as that is an excellent connector for this purpose. I’ve seen it done this way before.
I used a company called Component-shop.co.uk for the battery. The battery is terminated in a Tamiya connector, this interfaces with the charger as well. Then I had made up a Tamiya to Hirose cable for the final connection. Also put a short blow fuse inline, the battery can put out 35amps if shorted, so you must have protection for the fostex.
I actually had a case made up for the Fostex and 302, with a outside pocket to take the battery. This worked very well for me and I got about 7/8 hours out of a 4500mah battery, battery cost about £25.
All in all and compared to the bespoke RC battery setup you can buy online, I am very happy with it. You could even have a more powerful battery and run the 302 of that as well……or use another smaller battery for the 302.
If you live in UK, I have the 302 up for sale in the not to distant future……
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Hi Sion, It’s at the shop now. I was going to do it myself, but I found my soldering skills and eyesight not up to the job.
So basically, I bought some Hirose plugs and socket (same ones they use on Sound Devices kit for power). They are very secure plugs/socket.
Removed the timecode panel and drilled a hole in there for the new panel socket.The repair shop is soldering in a couple of wires from the old 12v socket terminals to my new Hirose socket.
The rest I have to do here. I bought a new PSU that had a simple twin wire supply from the PSU (the Fostex version uses a single core surrounded by a braid and not really suitable for wiring to small contacts in the Hirose). I also have NiMh battery packs for RC use. I’ll make up a connector for this as well.I’m confident this will be a good modification and provide a more secure connection when I’m on location.
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I know this post is long gone, but maybe it will get picked up again.
I want to do something very similar. I have a couple of Tamiya packs and the stamina is awesome, but I now have very little faith in the power socket, it feels the plug could come out at anytime.
Want to fit a Hirose in the side panel, so I’d be interested to know where you put yours. I am thinking of removing the cable clip and placing the Hirose right above the original socket. I also imagine I can take a couple of wires from the circuit board, where the power connecter is attached and solder the to the Hirose. Then I’d have two power sockets, but the Hirose being the only one used.
I thought I’d also change the mains adapter plug to Hirose.
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This whole FCPX debacle could easily be the result of SJ not being in the loop because of his illness. Not a great excuse I know, but maybe this is what happens when a company like Apple has it’s boss take a hiatus. If SJ does go eventually, I fear for the company. I think it is becoming clear now that Apple has moved so far into the consumer space that it’s “Pro” side is looking more and more on shaky ground.
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No, I am spotting this in Compressor and FCP.