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  • Fostex FR2 settings and the power issue

    Posted by Russ Johnson on May 12, 2010 at 9:15 pm

    Hi,

    We will be using a Fostex FR2 with a Sound Devices mixer on a Super-16 (24fps) project. I want to make sure we are using the right TC and pull up settings for a film project to be telecined, then to brought into sync and cut in FCP. We plan on this: 24fps time code and a +0.1% pull up.

    Also, the battery life on this recorder is abysmal (IMHO) and I’m wondering if someone could suggest an external battery/charger system that is compatible with it.

    Thank you very much for any insight,

    -Russ

    Rob Dunford replied 13 years, 9 months ago 4 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • Jon Goodman

    May 13, 2010 at 2:48 pm

    Hi Russ.
    I used to have an Fr-2 and you are right about the miserable battery life.I used to run it on 7.2 v rechargable tamiya style batteries.
    About timecode settings; I have always set my timecode to run at 30 fps non drop when working with film.
    Cheers
    Jon

  • Russ Johnson

    May 14, 2010 at 1:19 am

    Hi Jon,

    Thanks for the reply. I’ll check out the battery.

    I’m certainly not doubting you, just wondering why on the 30fps. Is it because the transfer was to NTSC video and the pull-down on the audio was done at the lab/teleciné facility? I’m a fossil filmmaker and always used a Nagra IV (no TC) in the past, so I’m admittedly ignorant on this subject.

    -Russ

  • Jon Goodman

    May 14, 2010 at 10:37 am

    Although I just do location recording it is my understanding that in the pulldown during telecine 30ND becomes 29.97. I’ve never had a problem.

  • Russ Johnson

    May 14, 2010 at 11:34 am

    That makes sense to me. Thanks again, Jon.

  • Deleted User

    May 22, 2010 at 3:06 pm

    Russ,

    I use a couple of different battery solutions with my FR2… When it’s in my bag I use a Tekkeon MP3450. Since I use the Wendt X3 as the mixer I modified the FR2 with a Hirose 4-pin power input to standardize on cables. The Tekkeon comes with a bunch of different plugs, none of which work directly with the FR2 DC input… you wouldn’t want to use that anyway- it doesn’t lock the plug solidly enough to be reliable.

    John

  • Russ Johnson

    May 24, 2010 at 2:24 pm

    Thanks for the reply John. Those are interesting options.

    -Russ

  • Rob Dunford

    July 31, 2012 at 6:30 pm

    I know this post is long gone, but maybe it will get picked up again.

    I want to do something very similar. I have a couple of Tamiya packs and the stamina is awesome, but I now have very little faith in the power socket, it feels the plug could come out at anytime.

    Want to fit a Hirose in the side panel, so I’d be interested to know where you put yours. I am thinking of removing the cable clip and placing the Hirose right above the original socket. I also imagine I can take a couple of wires from the circuit board, where the power connecter is attached and solder the to the Hirose. Then I’d have two power sockets, but the Hirose being the only one used.

    I thought I’d also change the mains adapter plug to Hirose.

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