Forum Replies Created
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The 7D cost $600 more than the 60D but the 60D is only $200 more than the T2i. While some of us, including myself, may consider these to be in the “same price range”, many others consider these “worlds apart”. And the 60D has the advantage of the swivel LCD screen so if $600 breaks the budget for the 7D there is no way someone on this kind of budget can swing an external monitor to go with the 7D to have a similar workability. 60D is a solid choice all around.
🙂
Richard Cooper
FrostLine Productions, LLC
Anchorage, Alaska
http://www.frostlineproductions.com -
Hi Joey,
The key here in “LENSES” not “Lens” You will need a collection of lenses to cover your bases… and here are a few basic considerations.If you want to work with zooms then you should make sure that it has a constant aperture throughout the entire range of the zoom. This adds considerable cost to the glass but that is the trade off for the right lenses.
First get your self a good low light wide angle zoom. The Canon 17-35mm f2.8L is a great lens. It gives options for composing your shots between the 17mm and 35mm range.
Next you need the middle range and for that the Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L will do nicely for those semi-wide shots through the portrait type blow the BG out of focus type shots.
Depending on your needs and shooting style these two lenses could cover most of your bases and are a great pair of lenses to start with. If you need a longer focal length then the final lens I would suggest the Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L This is a great piece of glass!! and you will pay for it! hehehe
OK so if you want to work in lower light situations or just want to go for that “razor thin” DoF, going with low light (f1.2 f1.4 etc) primes may be another route for you… but then there are other considerations. You need enough lenses to cover all of your possible and useful focal lengths. These typically fall like this. I nice wide 17mm (you can even find 11mm in some brands) a 24mm, 35mm, 50mm, 85mm. Now these lenses should be the lowest light glass you can find and/or afford. a f1.2 or f1.4 / 50mm lens will blow your mind! And as with any high quality glass, the lower the light capability, the higher the price exponentially!
This prime set will, again, cover most of your bases and if you need to go longer than this I would still recommended the 70-200mm f/2.8 L as you will get really expensive really fast trying to cover that focal range in low light primes.
Hope this helps you sort the options out. As with any equipment purchase, there are many more options, this is just a basic rundown to get you moving in the right direction.
Good Luck!
Richard Cooper
FrostLine Productions, LLC
Anchorage, Alaska
http://www.frostlineproductions.com -
Hi Tim,
This should fit your needs nicely. Keep in mind it needs a power supply but you probably noticed that. Nice thing is that it actually has 2 HD/SDI outs so you can simultaneously go out to 2 monitors. Very handy.Also… while the other cannons down-convert upon recording you will find the 7D does not. While it is not a “clean” 1080p signal it is a nice hi res version (Not sure the exact specs) that looks great on an external monitor.
Good Luck!
Richard Cooper
FrostLine Productions, LLC
Anchorage, Alaska
http://www.frostlineproductions.com -
Richard Cooper
January 31, 2011 at 6:37 pm in reply to: Converting 60p footage to look like it was shot 24p natively.Run me through your work flow, cause that is NOT the result we get here.
Richard Cooper
FrostLine Productions, LLC
Anchorage, Alaska
http://www.frostlineproductions.com -
“Dude, you insult me!”
Hi Simon,
Surely, I don’t think this was Grinner’s intent, but rather a general statement, that is true by the way, about the Low end of the local television commercial market and how to better sell your self in those markets.“I feel like I’m whoring myself. For free.”
The way I see it is that you are NOT “whoring” your self for free. as you said, you get paid very well. I am assuming here you are on salary? What you have to understand is that in the television ad business, the money is NOT made in production, but rather in the sales of air time. So your company most likely makes a killing selling the air time with enough money to “pay you very well” to produce the spots for them. Even though they may not charge a premium for it, they more than make up for it with the revenue brought in from the time buys. They make money, you get paid a great salary and the client gets a “good solid” advertisement that is more than adequate for a regional market. This to me is how everybody wins. If you were forced to shovel *crap* out the door on a daily basis and were paid a pittance for your services, then I would see a problem.
Bottom line, if your getting paid very well to do a job you love, again, assuming here, then it’s all good. We all want big budgets so we can really sink our teeth in to a cool project! But there is value to your employer in you doing solid work on a quick turn around so they in turn can go out and make money.
Just another perspective, I hope it helps.
Good luck!
Richard Cooper
FrostLine Productions, LLC
Anchorage, Alaska
http://www.frostlineproductions.com -
“I will be shooting with the ex1 in 720p50p and with the S&Q function set to 50”.
Sounds like PAL land…so I will try to work in those numbers.
If you set the EX1 camera to record 720/50p and then set S&Q to 50p you will be in essence shooting at 50p and it will play back at 50p (regular speed). If I understand you correctly, this is what you DO NOT want.
You want to set the camera to record in 720/25p mode and THEN set your S&Q to record at 50p. Then when you play it back it will play at 25p in slo-motion of 50%. Then when you are editing, your time-line should be set at 25p as well. When you want to play something back at real speed. increase speed to 200%.
Hope this helps.
Richard Cooper
FrostLine Productions, LLC
Anchorage, Alaska
http://www.frostlineproductions.com -
What error message are you getting, exactly?
Richard Cooper
FrostLine Productions, LLC
Anchorage, Alaska
http://www.frostlineproductions.com -
Ooops, I meant “Noah” is correct! Sorry Noah!! I was just working on a post with Sane.
My bad!
Richard Cooper
FrostLine Productions, LLC
Anchorage, Alaska
http://www.frostlineproductions.com -
Shane is correct and has good questions… so if it is the “DVD burn fails in DVDSP”, then try build/format option… building a disc image via the “build” command then burn your DVD via the “format” command. This has worked literally every time that I have had a “DVD burn failure” from trying to burn directly from the burn command in DVDSP.
If it is “the DVD completes without errors but the resulting disc won’t play.” There is most likely a problem with the DVD layout like not setting your “first play” target or a menu button that is not assigned a target or worse yet, a “hidden button” that is the default. Many weird things can happen. And I have had all of these throw me for a loop in the past.
Hope this helps. Good Luck!
Richard Cooper
FrostLine Productions, LLC
Anchorage, Alaska
http://www.frostlineproductions.com -
Richard Cooper
January 27, 2011 at 11:13 pm in reply to: Converting 60p footage to look like it was shot 24p natively.Try going through the normal conform process in Cinema Tools and get it to standard 23.98 frame rate and then speed it up to 300% in your edit suite time line…. This will allow the footage to played back at 23.98 fps by dropping frames and not playing it back a 60 fps like the original shots.
I think you will be surprised.
Richard Cooper
FrostLine Productions, LLC
Anchorage, Alaska
http://www.frostlineproductions.com