[Pete Burger]

[Nick 2746] “If I turn the Interlaced scaling off then I can’t view the movie on an SD monitor.”

I’m not sure, if I understand correctly. If you turn interlaced scaling to off, results in a file that can’t be played? Or is the quality not good?

You could try to resize and convert to a different codec, like Photo-Jpeg at 90% (or higher), which produces quite good results.

[Pete Burger]

Used to work a lot with the XL2 a couple of years ago and it indeed is a great camera.

But I don’t think you’ll get happy with it, since it’s only SD. I made the step to HD about one year ago and definitly don’t want to go back!

I still work on a lot of SD projects, but I always record in HD – you got so many more possibilities when you have HD (or HDV) source material (reframing just to mention one).

If you are that much into “film-look”, you might want to take a closer look at one of the numerous VDSLRs, like the Canon 5DMkII that Bob suggested.

I have a 550D myself and use it alongside with my Sony V1 – it’s the perfect couple. The V1 – a easy to use, very good HDV camcorder and the 550D (T2i) with it’s interchangeable leneses for the more “filmic” stuff.

DSLRs are not to easy to handle in video mode, but the results are stunning!

[Pete Burger]

[Jason Jenkins] “How about the under-utilized “Smack the DP Upside the Head -‘Cause What Was He Thinking?!” filter?”

A great filter! Could hurt a bit, if you’re your own dp 😉

[Pete Burger]

You could also try the Magic Bullets Denoiser.

[Pete Burger]

Can confirm Rafaels answer. ML has to be on every card. If you delete the ML files or format the card, ML is gone.
Don’t know which version/build you have, but in the ML version that I use there’s a PDF included, that gives (more or less) detailed information about all features.

[Pete Burger]

[John Applewhite] “I’ve heard auto focus isn’t that important for shooting video and I could save some money going with a lens that doesn’t have it?”

Problem is, that autofocus doesn’t work properly with those cams in video mode. So autofocus isn’t that important, because you won’t use it anyway. 😉

The kit-lens is not that bad, especially when shooting outdoors. IMHO it’s a good starter. The first videos I made with my T2i, I made with the kit-lens. But when shooting indoors, you’ll most definitly need a faster one. Maybe get a couple primes and a good zoom-lense.

As Zane wrote: Start with renting lenses an then buy the ones you know you need often.

All the best!

[Pete Burger]

Mr Locke,
thanks a lot for your detailed description! If the windows version is available, I’ll definitly check it out! Sounds extremely promising.

All the best!

[Pete Burger]

Have you tried to export your final clip to a uncompressed (or slightly uncompressed) format (like with the before mentioned Cineform codec, DNxHD…). Does this clip show strobing motion too?
If not, then increase the bitrate of your H.264 output file.

In general it’s a good thing to export your final to an “uncompressed” master and do all of your final dvd/web conversions with that file. It’s faster and more stable.

hth

[Pete Burger]

Michael, is there really a significant quality improvement by using 5DtoRGB instead of say using MPEGStreamclip for transcoding? How does it affect the videos? I read somenthing about “chroma smoothing” on the rarevision site.
5DtoRGB was no option for me since I work on windows, but there seems to be a pc-version to be released.
Thanks in advance!

[Pete Burger]

[Norman Willis] “If I get a good 50mm prime, will that remove the distortion?”

I think with a good prime you’d be allright. Got the 50II 1.8 myself and have only very slight distortions. With rented more high quality lenses, I didn’t notice any distortions at all, but must admit, I haven’t looked for them 😉

You could try to remove them in post. In After Effects there’s the “optics compensation” filter that does a good job. Used it sucessfully on a couple of clips.

HTH

Edit:

To add: Forgot to mention that we use the 7D and the T2i (550D), so distortions may be more problematic with the 5DMkII due to it’s full frame sensor… So even with a lens that shows no/very little distortions on the smaller sensors could cause stronger ones on the 5D. Best would be to check different lenses, before buying… But a hq 50mm prime should nevertheless be more clean than your wide-angle zoom… imho