[Mike Sato]

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> 1. Anyone know what the approximate compression ratio is when a digital still camera uses H.264 to compress a 1280×720 video into a .mov file? < >> Actually, thinking about it, it’s impossible to answer question 1 without specific technical specifications for the camera. << OK. Just looking for a ballpark answer if anyone has an idea. ============= > 2. If the average playback bit rate for 720×480 video on a standard DVD is 5 Mb/sec, what would the approximate MPEG-2 compression ratio be? < >> 2. What is the format, frame size and datarate of the source you used to create the MPEG-2 and how long is it in total? << Say a commercial DVD movie that is 2 hours long and has wide screen or 4:3 full screen pan & scan viewing options. =============

[Mike Sato]

Daniel,

Thanks for your response. I am still unable to get even approximate answers to my two questions from those links though.

Mike S.

[Mike Sato]

Thanks for the suggestions. I need to search the web for some blue-eyed people with red eye to test with.

Thanks,
Mike

[Mike Sato]

>> For what it’s worth I just use the Sponge Tool and have it set to Desaturate. Just doing that takes no time or effort at all and is “good” almost every time. If it’s not, and it looks too dark afterwards you can always add in some color.

Since my question deals with blue eyes, could you explain how you select the shade of blue to use and how to reshade the blue in?
Thanks,
Mike

[Mike Sato]

Got it. Thanks for your help,
Mike

[Mike Sato]

Good link. Do blue eyes that have the red-eye effect retain enough blue to get natural looking blue eyes using the techniques in that link?

Thanks,
Mike

[Mike Sato]

Could anyone who uses Photoshop 7 confirm whether or not you are able to have a graphic file automatically open in PS7 when you click on the file name in Windows explorer?

Thanks,
Mike S.

[Mike Sato]

Jim,

Thanks for your insight. The reason I want to do a contract is that when I scan multiple photos and have PSE4 auto-straighten and crop, often times there is a little white showing on of the edges of photos. Realizing that the size of the photos vary, my goal is to crop about 5 – 10 pixels off the borders of photos. (Actual number of pixels to crop off will vary depending on size of photo and resolution scanned at).

Anyone with an easy way to do this?
Thanks,
Mike S.

[Mike Sato]

>> Try expanding the Canvas size and see if that helps.

Just tried it. The smooth, expand and contract options are still grayed out.

Thanks for the suggestion though,
Mike

[Mike Sato]

The deflicker option in Boris Red sounds good. I’ll check that out in the two NLE’s that I use. I have tried the slight blur technique on 400 dpi scanned photos which does reduce flickering but then the picture looks unsharp when I zoom in.

Regarding static photos (no zooming in), there’s something that camcorders do which allows pictures to look sharp yet have minimal flickering. Even if I resize photos from digital cameras to the same size, 720×480 or 655×480, and don’t do any zooming in, there can be a large amount of flickering on those photos. Wish I could find a software or a photoshop plug-in that can convert photos from digital still cameras to the camcorder equivalent of 720×480 with minimal flickering yet retain sharpness that camcorder stills can provide.

Thanks,
Mike