Michael Sacci
1
COW Coin
Forum Replies Created
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What codec and resolution is your HD footage?
What are your settings in Compressor, it is hard to tell you what are doing wrong if you don’t list what you did.
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Natress Filters has better than stock filters available (for sale). DV and DVD do not like reds, this setup should be avoided if you do this type of project again.
Couple of things that might try, Look at Natress’s filters for upsampling to 4:2:2 and then do some color corrections, make sure the chroma levels are within broadcast safe and you may want to reduce the saturation even further.
I better encoder maybe needed also. Compressor does a good job on most things but it seems to have more trouble with reds then Bitvice or others.
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[Olive Green] “”I understand that the underscan / overscan problem can be dealt with by allowing for either overscan or underscan when filming””
No idea what you are talking about, video cameras shoot video, always the same there are Production monitors that have underscan settings so you can be sure nothing is in your frame. No TV 4:3 or 16:9 is the same, they display difference amount which is why the term “Safe” is used. (I understand you know all this but I don’t think you are thinking it through). If all your important image is within action safe you are safe and if something is displays 100% of the image it will just have a bit more breathing room. So unless you are going to be able to test each display you have no idea what is going to be displayed. Plus how many of the people that will be running the projectors will even know if there are projecting full frame or overscan.
If you are shooting interlace you could test deinterlacing it with Compressor, Motion or AE. They will do a much better job then a simple deinterlace filter. But understand that you lose something in the process. 2 interlace fields do not equal a single progressive frame. Field 1o and 1e have a temporal difference that has to be compensated for and with this there is a drop in sharpness, the better software you use the better the end results. You need to run test to see if you like what you get. Hard lines are the toughest to deal with.
My suggestion would be to start video a camera that could do true 30p. This would give you the cleanest overall results for interlace and progressive displays. Much smoother than 24p would give you and it would be easier to deal with. You have to keep it progressive through the entire process.
[Olive Green] “Finally, if there is a standard accepted format (underscanned / overscanned / interlaced / progressive) it makes this whole process a lot easier. Is there one?”
YES, shoot and edit with action safe images, shoot 30p. -
Underscan/Overscan, don’t even take this into account. You protect for the cropping and make sure there is no offensive element in the full frame. For people shooting narratives these offensive elements can be the boom mic or edge of scenery.
With Progressive/Interlace for is your footage. The thing is to keep it consistent throughout the process. If you are filming your artwork with a progressive camera, edit it as progressive and encode it as progressive. If your interlace keep it interlace. If you have a choice I would recommend th e Progressive route, because a DVD will add interlace to progressive footage nicely and that is the way we watch most of the DVD we buy.
I think you are over thinking this, never confuse a judge with so many choices.
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I always keep to Duels on hand. I have had an adapter go bad on my twice, and one other one that was not mine. I ruled out software since I can put in another Duel and it works fine and the bad one will not work in any computer. But at the price you can afford to have a back up.
The good news is there are pretty fast. I full 32 GB card copied to a FW800 drive takes about 19 minutes.
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All DVDs are DVD-ROMs, formatted as UDF, all you need to do is add a folder to your disc. Unlike Audio CD that had a separate partition if you wanted to include data and then on a computer it showed up as 2 different discs.
The problems arise if you want to access this extra media via the DVD programing, which there WERE several programs that tried to bring this function to authoring but they have been abandoned or recommended against using.
So on the final disc you end up with the Video TS, Audio TS (empty) and EXTRAs folders, all your extra files are put into the EXTRAs folders and are accessible when you navigate to the disc on your computer.
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How many business cards can we bring. 🙂
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Varicams always records 60 fps second, so when you have the camera at 24p (23.98) it records 60 fps by recording 2 of the same frame and then 3 of the next frame, and so on. These extra frames needs to be removed as you capture the footage.
And Russell, I correct myself, when you take the removal of the reductant frames into account on DVCProHD you do come out about the same as DVCPro50. I spoke too soon.
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DVCPro50 is 1/2 the size of DVCProHD. (I was wrong here, sorry)
DVCPro50 can also be captured as 24P so no interlace needs to be added until you go to tape and your Decklink card will do that on the fly when you go to tape.
If you want to do back up to HD you just recapture the footage you actually use in the final edit.
The one thing you do need to decide up front is whether you want to edit 16:9 or 4:3 once it is in SD to change aspect ratio causes a quality hit.
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There is a program on the Mac called DVDAfterEdit, It is not cheap and it has a pretty good learning curve. But with it you can replace a video asset without too much trouble. You would rip the video file from the DVD with a standard ripping tool, make your changes and then place the new video back in the Video TS Folder.
There is a program on the PC side but I think you have to also have Scenarist. There maybe other types out there but I’m a Mac only shop.
If you think this is a one time deal for you you can email me and I’ll give you a price to handle the replacement for you. Pretty much an hours work after you make your changes.
onthecow (at) michaelangelodv (dot) com