Michael Sacci
1
COW Coin
Forum Replies Created
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with compressor, key frame is a full frame, if you don’t understand them it is always best to use auto.
the more you have the better transition maybe but you may cause the compressor to be softer overall.
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[Dana Strom] “This is for broadcast, final delivery is a 1808i 29.97 HDCam SR “
Jeremy, please confirm, if this is the goal then 60p is the best framerate. And would going from a 30p timeline and 30p on a 60p give you the same result when mastered to 29.97i?
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If you are on a Mac, you have DVDSP that comes in Final Cut Studio or Encore that is packaged with Premiere Pro and any Adobe bundle with PP in it.
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The frustration is that I’m asking for details, step by step details of your procedures. A list of all your settings. I’ve asked about your system and HD, don’t see an answer.
To put it another way I would like a list of what you are doing and then the result. No more paragraphs.
So if you want me to help that is what I need.
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Anna, you need to give detailed list of your settings, all your settings. All the steps you are taking. Comments like, “I checked the settings and they are correct” are not helpful. What do you mean by stalls? for a sec? stops the DVD? Freezes on that frame?
You are simply all over the place is describing what you are doing.
+R media is never recommended. This is more of a playback thing, -R are safer for compatibility.
Within DVDSP there are 2 ways to make a disc. Burn (I never recommend) or Build and Format. Once you build a project you can just use Format if no changes are made to the project. You should be using the Build and Format. Yes it is a good idea to uncheck loseless linking.
The m2v files need to be clean and single files within each track. The audio needs to be ac3 and not uncompressed PCM.
So if you want more help you need to provide a simple step by step list of what you are doing and details of your settings.
Also what HD are you using for your build Video TS, how is that formatted.
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You got things all screwed up, you have part HD and part SD, how did you get to that point. You are also adding interlacing to your footage, not smart.
Open easy setup and choose ProRes 1920×1080 25p (or 24p in you are not in a PAL country). Do not use DVCProHD.
Everything needs to be 1920×1080. You need to stay progressive the entire way through. After you choose the correct easy setup you need to make a new sequence.
There should be no black border on any of your photos if they are larger than 1920×1080. There should be no distortion. Do your edit.
Then compress it to the m2v in Compressor remember to keep it progressive. Keep it at the same frame rate. Make sure you have the aspect ratio at 16:9.
How the quality on the TV is going to depend on what it doing the upconverting. A BluRay player or SD DVD player that does the upconverting will do a much better job then a SD DVD into a HDTV.
Without a TV to proof your work you are flying blind, as a professional I would never work that way. It is like recording audio with headphones. I know a lot of people do it but it is not the professional way.
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If you have FCP you have compress software in Compressor. You should be able to get very good H264 down to 1 or 2 GB. Time to encode can be better than real if you buy some hardware. For $130 you can get TurboHD and for $500 you can get a H264 card from Matrox. Matrox should give you better quality at the same bitrate for the extra money. Either one pays for itself pretty quickly.
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[Chris Guevarra] “This is now causing us some problems with new editors jumping on board. “
What do you mean by this? As in they edit on their own systems that have newer version? What features in FCP 6 or 7 do you need? -
Which MacPro 2.1, 3.1 or what? there was a major change in PCI slots as if your system has PCI 2 you have more options, if not you can get the X1900 or put in a newer ATI PCI2 and get some of the benefit.
This will not help with FCP, it will help with Color and Motion. At this time FCP does not take advantage of the GPU.
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FCP nor any other NLE would not be able to know what shutter speed you shot the video with. It has zero effect on editing, it does of course effect the look of the video.
Yes, the plug, Compressor and Streamclip are all transcoding the clips to ProRes, the plug in adds time of day TC (if the camera’s date and time has been set) but the file conversion is pretty much the same.
For frames rates you need to use Compressor and if quality is needed you turn on Frame Controls. In the video settings button make the framerate change, remember that 24p for video is actually 23.976 If you are going from 29.97p to 23.976p you just need to test things out.
As for the DV, if you up convert this it is going to look really soft unless you use specially plugins like InstantHD or you get it converted via hardware. It will still look soft but it would be better.
All that to say is you need to test out all the steps before you get into the edit.