Michael Sacci
1
COW Coin
Forum Replies Created
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Get the 50mm 1.4 more more focus friendly for video and is every faster vs the 50 1.8.
Are you looking at non-Canon lenses since I don’t know of a 28-105 or 18-50 2.8 made by canon.
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I almost wished my card didn’t work in video mode. I would have returned them, I got them at Sams but I will just use them for Stills from once my faster card comes in.
I really wondering if this is a heat thing. I did some test inside with AC on and panning seemed smooth. Camera really heats up fast out there. Talking like within 10 mins I get the blinking light.
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[Nathan Lehner] “I just compressed to a DVD”
As in a SD DVD or BluRay, if you are going to a SD DVD you never want to go to H264 or any other mpeg4, it uses m2v codec, you would want to use the ProRes file for DVD encoding. You need to give complete workflow objective and settings if you want to get clearer help. -
8-Core Mac Pro 2,1 3GHz
8 GB of memory
OS 10.6.4
FCP 7.0.2
AJA 8.0 NDDRe-trancoded to full raster and 10-bit plays back fine. I get the YUV-10b in frame buffer now. SInce it is coming it is doing the same thing in AJA TV with just a single clip, I’m thinking that Compressor is making the PR file only 8 Bits.
This will probably end up in Color (if they will stop making chances) so thanks for the heads up on the 1440 issue there.
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There is no reason to use both unless there are ports you need that the K3 doesn’t have (Analog video or HDMI) So Bob is saying you can just get a converter if you need the analog. The Kona3 doesn’t need to have a ProRes encoder on it because the system is fast enough to encode in RT while capturing.
So K3 card is great for Uncompressed, ProRes, DVCProHD and a bunch of other things.
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Not sure I see the benefit of a Disc Image over a discreet folder for each card. What do you again by the extra effort of having to make and then mount an image each time you want to access the media. Not saying you are wrong just wondering if you get something for the extra work.
Honestly something like ShutPut Pro is the way to go, it can copy to multiple drives at the same time and does a verification of the copy.
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Plus by the time you buy 2 halfway decent Cir Pol filters you are close to the price of a LCW or Fader filter anyway.
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Just posted this in the thread on the Mark II.
I noticed this sporadic shutter on my T2i the other day. I thinking I’m wrong about my class 4 being okay (I know they are below spec) in my last time it was really hot outside, close to 100 degrees. I’m getting Transcend cards at Class 6 now.
What type of cards are you using? 24p should be shot at 1/48 of a sec. 1/30 will give you extra blur. 24p does need to be panned very slow but if we are all describing the same thing it is not a too fast pan. It seems to be a write issue. For me I have to blame the cards first since they are under spec. What about you.
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I noticed this sporadic shutter on my T2i the other day. I thinking I’m wrong about my class 4 being okay (I know they are below spec) in my last time it was really hot outside, close to 100 degrees. I’m getting Transcend cards at Class 6 now.
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[Deborah Wise] “4801/40p”????????? do you mean 480i/30p
Is the effect through the entire image or is it just the projected image in the background. If it is just the projected image you need to work on matching the scan rate of the project and camera. You can try a 1/30 shutter speed, vs the normal 1/60th. Look to see if you have too much blur at that setting, also you can adjust the syncro scan rate under the scene file settings.