Spill suppression uses a virtual version of the lighting technique we use in real life, that is, to kill spill off a blue screen, you back-light with what they call a “bastard yellow” or amber light, because yellow is across the color wheel from blue. When keying off green screen, the color on the opposite side of the color wheel is magenta. This is why your tint looks “pink”: it’s a weak magenta tint being used in the spill suppression software.
Don’t even start messing with your keyer, until the raw footage is properly adjusted on your scopes for exposure as well as color saturation. A lot of beginners miss this step and wonder why the shot is such a struggle. Good fundamentals here make the keying go much easier, later in the chain. That lets you generate the key, and then you can go on and color-correct the composited output all you want.
When I’m serious about a greenscreen shot, I bring my MacBeth chart or at least a physical color bar chart to the set and shoot samples with it in the frame, in the actual lighting, then in post I color-correct the raw footage until the chart looks right on the scopes, only then do I attempt keying and and after that, keying is usually instant success, no need to make adjustments. Camera-generated bars are not going to be any help with this; you need to have the chart imaged thru the actual lens.
The pink cast is a sign the spill compensation is cranked up too high; try adjusting the other spill-related parameters, or re-sample the green at a spot closer to the hair, to try and fine-tune the range that gets cut out. I often have to get into the manual control interface and mess with the end points on the controls when this happens to me.
You may want to play with doing a separate luma key and adding that as a traveling matte.
Another thing folks forget is that you can invoke multiple instances of a keyer, and mask it to work in just one area.
The Drop Shadow tool defaults to black… but, most don’t realize you CAN change it to another color, like chroma green, or anti-green magenta, and even use it as a kind of “wrap” light generator along a keyed edge, with variable opacity and softness. Might want to play with that.
Another way to save a bad key is to deliberately mess with the color balance and saturation, exaggerating it to the point the shot is useless visually, but has enough contrasts for the keyer to make a clean matte. Then build that matte with black/white and port that matte to a separate layer as a “hold-out” matte, restore the source footage to something human-looking, composite everything.
Some time back, I tamed a troublesome green screen shot by first keying it over a solid, saturated blue, essentially making it a blue-screen shot, and losing all the garbage mattes.
I kinda miss using blue screens – I think when the key is iffy on blue, it’s a little less obvious.
I predict we’re not far off from the day video cameras using light-field technology record the z-depth of every item in a shot, and on that happy day, we can generate clean “chroma” keys just by selecting where in the depth of field range an image segment is supposed to be visible or not. Call it “Z-keying”. And I want the royalties on that idea/name. 🙂