Mark Frazier
Forum Replies Created
-
I really appreciate the info and advice out here in the cow pasture. As usual, there’s MANY things to take into consideration when taking up an offer of a new camera, and I’m glad I can get some good, unbiased info. Sounds like there may be some times when the Panny wouldn’t be the best camera choice, other times it would work fine.
I guess the next question would be “What are they going to come out with six weeks after I buy this camera?”
Thanks again!
Mark -
Chris, thanks for the quick response. This is the type of info I need but the sales folks forget to mention when I’m cutting a check to them.
Mark
-
Sounds like the problems I used to have with RED (Boris’ combination of Graffiti & FX, in a very simple nutshell.) If Graffiti is similar enough to RED in this respect, go into your preferences and find a checkbox for “1:2:1 Deflickering”. In the RED preferences, it’s in the “Local Project” tab. Make sure it’s checked and rerender the roll. If this doesn’t work, post the question over in the Boris forum and see if they’ve got any other ideas.
Good luck!
Mark
-
And you can use it to manipulate depth of field when needed.
-
I feel your pain (actually, your heat.) Same problem in my office, and it gets worse in the cooler months when the building A/C shuts off. Our solution ended up being one of the freestanding A/C units in my office, which cools the room just fine. The problem is your use of the word “quiet”. Between that unit and a couple of extra fans to circulate the air, there’s a pretty high level of “white noise”.
If your boss/company owner/whoever is paying the bills will understand this and work with you, see if you can find a unit you can mount above the drop ceiling and then duct it into your office. But plan for the worst-case scenario of a water leak and make sure to NOT mount it directly above any equipment, tape storage, etc. It happens (trust me on this one.) I had this setup at a previous job, and there was not the noise level I have now, nor did I have to empty the condensation bucket every day. It will cost more money, but IMHO it’s dollars well spent.
Best of luck!
Mark
-
Check out the Live & Stage Events forum. This should be up their alley.
Mark
-
Lots of good info so far. Like a lot of these other guys, I’m also a one man band, so my choices lean heavily on what audio tells the story with the fewest “distractions”. Having to “fix something in post” only causes more work for me, which is a bad idea with deadlines looming. Record the best, most consistent-sounding audio in the field, and you’ll thank yourself later.
Typically, my best audio cuts get laid back-to-back, and the “noddies” get used to cover the edit points. When I need to space out some words or thoughts, that’s where I roll a little ambient sound under the audio hole to keep the feel of the scene consistent. (That’s why recording a minute or so of clean ambient sound is important when you’re shooting these scenes/interviews/whatever.)
When watching your favorite shows or movies, put on a good set of headphones. Notice that the background noise – particularly the sound of a radio playing in the background – doesn’t have jumps in it. That’s because it was recorded separately and added after the primary audio was laid out. And once again, that’s where the force comes in. Make it sound natural. You want the viewer to believe they were there when it all happened.
Good luck and enjoy!
Mark
-
Click on a file of the type you want to open. Hit Apple-I to open it’s information window. About halfway down that window is an “Open With” pulldown, where you select what program you want to use to open that file with. Once you’ve selected the program, there’s a button underneath the pulldown that allows you to “Use this application to open all documents of this type.”
Hope this gets you where you need to be.
Mark
-
Without yanking the drive out, all other material leads me to believe it’s actually a Pioneer.
Referencing your earlier post about the door problem, I had the same thing happen when I installed it in my G5. I removed the drive, took off the plate on the front of the drawer and stuck the “bumper plate” from the original drive onto the front of the drawer (the original didn’t have a typical front plate – it was smaller and had rounded edges, I assume to make sure it would open the plate on the G5 case.)
Thanks for the response.
Mark
-
I had to restart the computer, and I’m back to the gray screen of death. Any suggestions??
Thanks!
Mark