Marcello Mazzilli
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Are you using any plugin. I found that Ultimatte is very good.
MsiRoma di Marcello Mazzilli
Corporate video productions in Italy
http://www.siroma.com -
Try this… https://www.onoff.ch/2008/06/21/secret-after-effects-settings/
Also.. for complex projects I tend to pre-render (in no-compression formats) heavy an repetitive animations, import them and paste them on the top layer of their own composition. This can speed up rendering and handling of the whole project. Let’s say you have a shining star moving all over the video for 10 seconds, and the star shines in a one second loop through complex particle, glow effects… just render the one sec, repeat it N times in it’s own composition and it will all be faster for AEFX
Hope it helps
siRoma di Marcello Mazzilli
Corporate video productions in Italy
http://www.siroma.com -
I started on linear editing weddings and was a very good way to start in my opinion. You have to plan everything. All the camera men of our facility were trained to shoot in a certain way so we, editros, could expect the footage to be roughly on the same area of the tape. The owner of the place had started with film.. and at that time.. for weddings budget.. there was NO editing at all ! Everything had to come out good from the camera !!!
Now I happily work on digital and appreciate all the possibilities. But I would like to talk bout something else…
Has somebody worked on Matrox Studio? I did for 2-3 years. This system was an in-between system. You had a PC with a timeline and clips with a frame on top so you could understand what it was. But the actual clip was just a reference for tapes. Nothing was really in the machine.. a part from the first clip! It was a uite intelligent solution… It enabled you to easiy do changes in the middle of any job, including complex fades or audio mix. But obviously you will be asked to insert tape A21, tape F34, etc…. (Here I learned how important it is to name tapes correctly).
Once we had to do a 3 monitor movie for a preentation so I had a 3 layer timeline to edit but I was editing completely blind. I had “captured” hundreds of 1 second long footage and almost edited like we do today.. but blind (without seing the result). There was not much matching to do being short clips.. it was more a thing of rithm. Finally.. I had to print the three layers of the timeline separatly on thre different masters. I was inserting tapes all night !!!
The funny thing is that sometimes I keep working at night to keep on schedule.
siRoma di Marcello Mazzilli
Corporate video productions in Italy
http://www.siroma.com -
Yes… If your aim is to keep quality and the only reason for converting is to feed AfterFX with some easier codec (non intra frame) I’d go for no compressed (but takes a lot of space)
The aim of the secret option is to reduce the amount of frames it keeps in cache.. You should try with different values because if possible this is an operation that should NOT be done
siRoma di Marcello Mazzilli
Corporate video productions in Italy
http://www.siroma.com -
MPEG Streamclip is free and also for PC.. you can find it here…
https://www.squared5.com/I don’t know what format it allows you to convert MPEG2 to but it should use almost any AVI codec you have installed on your machine. If the purpose is to actually work with the clips (maybe in realtime in Premiere etc..) you should change MPEG2 from HDV in Cineform (500$)… If you can manage to edit slowly and you have plenty of space you can just use “no-compression” settings in your AVI. There are other free codecs you can install and use.
I think installing from here should give you a good range of choices…
https://www.free-codecs.com/download/AVI_Codec_Pack.htm
Still.. by manual you should not convert at all (to keep all information) or use no-compression settings.. allthough CineForm is virtually losslesPS Your 3 sec problem could come from somewhere else. If the project is kind of complex, or your computer to small (to little ram).. After FX can give that kind of problems. There is a secret keycombination to reveal an extra setting panel in the preferences to force it to discard cache every so and so frames.
hold the shift key, go to edit > preferences > memory & cache and you’ll be surprised to see a new entry in the drop down menu called ’secret’: the most interesting setting is the one that you can clear the memory after a specific amount of rendered images: ‘disable layer cache’
siRoma di Marcello Mazzilli
Corporate video productions in Italy
http://www.siroma.com -
Found it…
https://www.topazlabs.com/enhance/siRoma di Marcello Mazzilli
Corporate video productions in Italy
http://www.siroma.com -
I’ve seen the shows.. and understand.. You just need to put the picture more in contrast.
I know for sure there are plugins that can help (it saved my ass in a job) but I can’t recall now the name of the plugin I used.
Try looking for “sharpen plugin”
You will also need to play around with contrast settings etc..
It works quite well but obviously can’t do miracles. The final picture could have a little “cartoon” effect (the plugin detects edges, then sharpens them, then blurs out the noise that inevitaably is created and this last procedure also deletes some color shades in the picture)siRoma di Marcello Mazzilli
Corporate video productions in Italy
http://www.siroma.com -
Seems to work.. but I’m not sure it’s doing what I was thinking. I have to test it. As far as I can see he keeps fields in the same frame and just creates a half res frame every 1/50th of a sec.
siRoma di Marcello Mazzilli
Corporate video productions in Italy
http://www.siroma.com -
No sorry.. I think there could have been some misunderstanding here.My fault maybe.. I’m not english language
1) Interlaced PAL (that is 25 fps) is usually written 50i (and not 25i) as interlaced NTSC is written 60i (and not 30i).
2) When I say 25p is better than 50i.. i mean… “shooting in 25p is better than shooting in 50i and interpolating afterwards”. 50 K$ cameras shoot also 1080/50p and that’s even better. My camera shoots only 720/50p but not 1080/50p so I have to shoot either 1080/25p or 720/50p or 1080/50i. Sometimes (for many reasons ) I choose 50i and then sometimes I interpolate to 25p. I would like to convert (not interpolate!) with the method I described to 100i (not 100 fps but 50 fps!) and then interpolate to 50p to get better slow motion (but not better frame quality) than 25p. Hope is clear!
3) I know there are nice interpolating algorithms around.. I just want to avoid algorithm if I need EXACTLY 50% slow motion. It’s better and faster to use (if I find how) the method described
Anyway.. thanks for interest
siRoma di Marcello Mazzilli
Corporate video productions in Italy
http://www.siroma.com -
Well.. as far as I know the picture is just much more contrasted with no “blurs” on the edge of moving objects.. May be I’m missing something
siRoma di Marcello Mazzilli
Corporate video productions in Italy
http://www.siroma.com