Lars Bunch
Forum Replies Created
-
If you don’t have the plugin for CS3, here is a link for the download.
https://www.maxon.net/pages/download/plugins_e.html
Hope this helps,
Lars
Lars Jagatai Bunch
lars@larsbunch.com
http://www.larsbunch.com
http://www.arroyomedia.com -
Hi,
Is it possible it is the lossy nature of the jpeg files that may be causing the problem? If you render as an uncompressed Tiff sequence do you get the same color shifts? (If you need jpeg, I suppose you could convert to jpeg on a single machine after the main render is complete)
Lars
-
Hi,
On the Issue of Wacom Tablets, if you can afford a 12 inch Cintiq tablet monitor, it will make the job much, much easier. I use both a 6×11 tablet and a 21 Inch Cintiq at work and the 12 inch Cintiq at home. I actually prefer the 12 inch because I can easily work with it on my lap the way I might with a pad of paper. I just did a rotoscoping job and I found that it was easier to do at home where I could work with the 12 inch monitor.
The 6×11 tablet is very useful for a lot of things, but when it comes to rotoscoping and any other job that involves careful drawing, the Cintiq is extremely helpful. I suppose the way to determine what size tablet is going to work for you is to draw on various sizes of paper and determine what size feels best. If you draw large, you will probably only be happy with a large tablet. If you tend to draw small, perhaps you can get away with one of the smaller tablets.
Hope this helps,
Lars
Lars Jagatai Bunch
lars@larsbunch.com
http://www.larsbunch.com
http://www.arroyomedia.com -
Hi,
Sounds like “tearing” to me. My understanding is that this can be caused by a number of factors, but the usual is from luma or chroma levels that exceed 110 IRE (Maximum white on NTSC should not exceed 100 IRE) It may also be caused by “head clogging” due to dirt in the video playback or record device.
Hopefully a hard-core engineer can give you better information, but that was what I heard back when I was a tape op.
Lars
-
Hi,
One way to do it is to export your footage as a Tiff sequence and then use an action in Photoshop to add the Filter>Sketch>Halftone Pattern filter to it. Obviously then you need to import it back into AE. It’s a clunky workflow, but it will get you there.
Lars
-
Hi,
I’ve never used a video camera to do time lapse, but I have used a DSLR.
Obviously the DSLR will give you a much bigger image to work with and can give you a great deal more control and flexibility, but it also gives you many opportunities to shoot your self in the foot.
When shooting time lapse, set all your exposure and color balance features to manual. If you set them to automatic you will get exposure and color fluctuations from frame to frame. Auto white balance will make subtle changes to the exposure from something as minor as a cloud passing by. Also if you have an auto focus lens, set that to manual as well.
If you are going to have extreme exposure differences throughout the shot, daylight into night for example, you may want to shoot the images in RAW format so that you can control the values in a program like Lightroom or Aperture. Obviously this gets fairly labor intensive in post production, but Lightroom (and I assume Aperture) lets you apply the same exposure correction to any number of images so if you need to adjust everything, it’s not a one by one process.
Another advantage of shooting with the DSLR is that the resulting shot can be larger than HD resolution, allowing you to re-frame the shot to better suit your needs down the line. (As well as sell it for stock)
My feeling is that, while a video camera may be able to do an adequate job, time lapse requires so much set up work and patience just to get a few seconds that you might as well do just a little bit more work and get a shot that can look a whole lot better and be reused in any format.
No matter what, you should make tests so see how feasible your workflow will be. If you need to work really fast, the DSLR method may not be for you, although when it comes to time lapse, nothing happens very fast.
Hope this helps,
Lars
-
Hi,
I only have CS3 (AE v8) to go by at the moment, but freeze frame is under Layers>Time>Freeze Frame and I assume it would be the same under v6.5
Lars
-
Hi,
Regarding the suggestion to use Trapcode Particular, would it be possible to use the particle generator to create particles spreading out from the cloak as a displacement map layer and then use that to distort the image to create the effect of the fabric constantly flowing out and away? Particular allows you to use a layer as a particle generator so this would not be difficult if you shot the black cloaked character against a greenscreen or if you want to do a rough roto-mask.
Hope this helps,
Lars
-
Hi,
As I am sure the tutorials state, you need to extend the backgrounds. This is the hardest, most time consuming part of the job. Once you cut a person out of a shot, you will have use photoshop to fill in the background shot so that when you see behind the character, you will see background rather than a repeat of the character. (Does this make sense? Even I don’t understand what I’m saying. I need more coffee.)
You can simplify the job by using a completely different image for the background, but you lose some of the feeling that it is the same shot in 3D.
Hope this helps more than it confuses.
Lars
-
Hi,
Auto trace under the layers menu should get you a good start. Or alternatively, if you have Illustrator CS2 or higher, you could export a tiff sequence and then use Bridge with Illustrator to trace your frames and then re-import them into AE.
Hope this helps,
Lars