Jonathan Ziegler
Forum Replies Created
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So I’m not exactly sure what you’re trying to accomplish. If you want a 3D object, go with a 3D program and there are dozens of tutorials that will tell you how to make a model from a photo. If your making an illustration of some form, then it would be easier to go back to basic drawing techniques and fill in the visual information one piece at a time – illustrator works great for that. I’ve never been real happy with AI’s 3D feature since it always tended to be resource Intensive and really only makes a 2D model with some pretty basic features. I think most (even FREE) 3D apps out there will do the same with far fewer resources and you have a model you can load into photoshop to make the final comp.
I’m interested to see what you come up with.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
I will add that sRGB is a better color profile just cause you don’t know how it will output. I personally despise sRGB for various reasons, but I also use it for web graphics and video, too. When you know the final color profile, use that instead, but if you don’t know, use sRGB instead.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
Download the latest MPEG streamclip. It’s free, it works great for transcoding. I use prores to transcode. The problem is the h.264 footage is heavily compressed and takes loads of processor time just to play – let alone edit. Transcoding converts footage to a less compressed format which means it’s less processor intensive (faster). The files will wind up bigger, but easier to edit.
Let us know how it goes! 🙂
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
I’m pretty sure it isn’t a font (99.9%). It’s calligraphy. Back when that book was published, fonts came in books and stuff like this was done by hand. Do a search instead for calligraphic fonts or script fonts with a high thick-to-thin ratio (diagonal) and you should come up with something pretty close you can use.
Hope this helps. 🙂
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
Simple stuff:
make sure you are using the right color space and you’re in RGB or CMYK as needed.The file seems a bit dark to begin with, so try bumping up the brightness and resaving and if it knocks down in color again, switch to a generic color profile like Adobe RGB (or maybe try a restricted one like sRGB).
If this is for the web or will be viewed on the web, DO NOT include the color profile when you save as a JPEG – to my knowledge, no browsers support the color profiles; they just read the hard RGB data and output that so the color profile is extraneous data, but if you’re using the wrong color profile when you create the file, your images can suddenly look really weird on a web page. You are better off using sRGB when viewing for the web because everyone’s monitor is a little off. I personally hate sRGB, but it’s a convenient narrow gamut RGB color profile to use.
Try saving to an uncompressed format or some other format or reduce compression to the bare minimum or quality 12. TIFFs and BMPs usually work fine. Even PNGs. Then, close and re-open that file and save to JPG if necessary.
As for the style settings, try turning off each style until you find the issue.
Can you attach the PSD file or something with the layer styles?
Try loading the PSD file on another machine, too if you can.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
Depends on the project, but, as a rule, I like them to be under a minute (ideally 30 sec). Skip the plain, static camera stuff. Skip the talking heads. I can do that myself. I want to see shots nobody else has; not the stuff that EVERYONE has. If you have a LOT of unique stuff, organize it so similar shots are together and keep clips short. Don’t worry about labelling everything (other than your name and contact info), if I can’t figure out how you shot it, I’ll ask. The problem isn’t that I don’t want to see it all, but I have 5000 disparate things and I have to change gears all over the place so I want stuff I can use to make quick decisions.
Also, I no longer have a drive on my computer so send a link not a disk!
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
This is a guess, but I’m betting the flicker is due to the way you shot the footage. At a 1000 shutter speed, you have a mismatch between how fast the torch is flashing and firing and how your camera is recording. Like setting your photo camera at a higher shutter speed than a strobe can fire – you get weird things like part of the shutter in the frame, half exposures, etc. In this case, the irregular flash of the torch is not in line with your camera (sort of between frames). I suggest a slower shutter.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
I have a t3i too and I’ve rented the 6d. Love it. As soon as I have the extra coin I’m bumping up to the 6d. Full-frame at cropped pricing. Comparable to the 5d, but the 5d is still better I think. For video, it’s great and it will use all your canon lenses (check with canon first so you don’t hit the mirror or something).
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
My understanding is the file format is a sort of “plot” kinda like a DXF file. Basically, it’s a sort of vector file (not really, but that’s how I think of it). I have seen converters from JPEG to this unique file format, but, unless you plan to do a lot of this and buy the software, you are better off hiring someone to convert the file(s) for you – these are pretty inexpensive services. You could also talk to local embroiderers and see what they suggest.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
Looks like you may need to get a custom setup from your device manufacturer. What is the make and model? Do they have any contact info?
Save early. Save often.
Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293