Jonathan Ziegler
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Is this an older device using a 565 type color (in other words RGB is 565 vs 888)? There are others, too (1555 if you have transparency, etc).
First, don’t bother with indexed color. This won’t do what you want it to do in this case. You’ll have to start with a 24-bit RGB image and, when you save, you will convert to 16-bit. It’s really pretty easy.
For this, I’m using Photoshop CC 2014. I do not know if this will work in CS4, but since BMPs have been supported for a very long time (in computer terms), it should still work.
So, create your image. You can check this site for SIMULATING the image (before you save so you don’t have to keep building/saving/reqbuilding to get the image just so).
https://www.edais.co.uk/blog/?p=92
Start with a regular 24-bit RGB image – the tutorial above will help a bit in narrowing color choices down, but remember your image is still 24 bit until you save as a BMP file:
When you are ready to save, go to File >> Save As, Pick BMP from the list. Choose 16bit from your bit depth. Depending on the color palette you need, you can hit “Advanced Modes” to pick – check these out anyhow as it may help your colors (you can always just take defaults and go back to Basic Modes). You have 6 different options to choose from, though they may not all be selectable. Default is X1R5G5B5 which allows a bit for transparency (I think). If your device doesn’t support transparency, you may need to choose R5G6B5. Check with the device manufacturer if possible for further details on which color choices to use or which palette to pick.
I’m not sure what “Flip Row Order” does, but I’m assuming it changes the color order for the device in the file. Check with your device’s manufacturer, too as they may have further instructions.
I’m curious to see how this turns out. Hope it helps. 🙂
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
Well, it sounds like this feature is only available in one of the newer CC versions. How unfortunate.Not sure it helps, but I’m including a screen shot of what I see in my File >> Place dialog box. The link option now comes up by default now that I’ve selected it. This appears at the bottom of the dialog box for Place.
Forgot to mention: ID is “InDesign.”
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
Okay so I’m guessing you mean to link files to your AI files similar to the way in which InDesign works? I’m not sure WHEN they started doing this cuz I haven’t done it in AI before (only PS and ID) so I’m not sure which version, BUT there is a “Link” option at the bottom of the Place feature (File >> Place Shift-CMD-P) in AI – I am using the latest CC. You can view the links in the Links panel (I don’t think this is enabled by default) which is at Window >> Links.
PNG and JPG and other raster images appear to show in the Links panel automatically, but AI files do not (so remember to hit the Link checkbox).
Huge thanks, by the way, I was looking for a way to do just this, but I was in a pinch and I did it in InDesign instead because it was easier and I already know how that works. Now, I know there’s a way to do it in AI, PS, and ID. FINALLY!
Lemme know how this works out for you. I’m happy to send screen shots and if you have an earlier AI version which doesn’t have the “links” feature, post here so we can hunt that feature down to the version it first appears.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
Well, the colors are big – they’re using plain yellow and red with white and black. The problem is that the yellow and red come off as highlight and they wipe out the lettering (when you emphasize everything, you emphasize nothing). Instead, de-emphasize the chevron/shield and maybe abstract it a bit so it’s less a part of the main design and more like a background element. Then, overlay the text (over the chevron) and find a better font (there are TONS of fonts out there). Emphasize the fonts, but try for more print-oriented colors and take some of the brightness out if you have to use the yellow and red.
These are just a couple suggestions. I think if you had to do 1 thing, it’s recolor the whole thing. If you can do another, then redesign the chevron. If you had to do a third, change the fonts. Others may have a different set of priorities and, of course, the client will nearly always drive the work.
Hope this helps. 🙂
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
I agree with you:
Looks like someone made the text WITH the 3D letters in one go, then added an arch to all the letters. This looks like a quick design job, too. You could make small improvements to make this an awesome logo, but if this is what they want, give them what they want.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
I think “life planner” is pretty vague. Also, you will want to spend a lot of time figuring out how you want it to look or find someone else’s and make it work for you. Much more detail required to adequately answer this question.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
Well, I’m a fan of keeping it simple. Might be worthwhile to just scan the cardboard and make an image in Photoshop then just overlay your design either in PS or in AI – restrict with a mask. Depends largely on what you plan to do with the finished product.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
I think it depends largely on you. Both act to stabilize footage, but not the same way. The shoulder rig has far less of a learning curve since it just needs to rest on your shoulders and it stabilizes by balancing movement among your hands and shoulders. The “Steadicam-pole” thing relies on your hand to stay stable while balancing the weight out with counterweights. I find these rigs get heavy fast and you can only shoot for short periods of time – all the while your hand and shoulder drop due to constant weight and motion. At the end of the day, you will need to stabilize the footage in post anyway (whether Steadicam or not). I suggest the shoulder rig for less overall strain and ease of use. For long term shooting, the shoulder rig will work quite well. I would skip the handle stabilizer rig and rent a better unit that attaches to your core like a real Steadicam for the correct feel to the footage. Another note: steadicams wobble and pivot and take a bit to fully stabilize with weights and such and take much longer to get used to – learning curve with steadicams.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
Hi there I make buttons, too and I’ve been using photoshop for decades. Your button company should have a template for you. I have mine from American button machines. What is it you are looking to do?
Please reply here so everyone can see the posts. 🙂
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
Well, I’m not seeing the issue you described. Tried clearing the style, recreating it, pasting it, etc. Saving had no noticeable impact. For reference, I’m running PS CC 2014 on a Mac, 32GB RAM, bla, bla, bla.
Might be your machine or CS6… I’m stumped. Only thing i can think is that CS6 needs updating? Sorry I couldn’t be more help, but glad to see it’s working with some wrangling, tho.
Save early. Save often.
Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293
