Jonathan Ziegler
Forum Replies Created
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Try searching Google images (or any other image search place you like) for “car wreck” or “car wreck tire” (“model car wreck” turned out some interesting results). I would grab a tire at the right angle and paste it in, warp it to match and be done. You can warp the tires that are already there in your image or at least cant them out so they look damaged or “flattening” them.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
Hmmm, I’ve never had more than a few actions in the palette at a time. Might be that it’s just overloaded? How many are there? Also, try putting them in folders to help sort them. Can you send an actual screen shot (print screen button or CMD-Shift-3 on Mac)?
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
Hey can you send me the link to the style you used or can you send the actual PSD file? Also, what version of PS are you using? When you save the PSD file, do you set it to maximize compatibility? Finally, can you list the steps you take or have taken? Just for the text I mean. 🙂
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
I think at this point, you might have to find a script to do the work quickly. A macro might work, too, but I think a script would work better in the long run, plus I’m not sure how to address each color individually in the color table with a macro.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
It’s going to be a pretty involved combination of effects and such. If you haven’t already, check out some of the photoshop “speed paintings” or “speed art” all over YouTube. Some favorites that will use similar techniques to what you are seeking (hopefully):
https://youtu.be/xabNeRII8fE (by Creative Station)
https://youtu.be/B-RSYPdZz5I?list=UUopU6KXnK517ycc4tZyzm-g (using actual car wreckage to simulate urban destruction)These techniques are really just basic photoshop manipulations on a big scale and repeated many times over to achieve the desired look. It’s not rocket surgery! It’s brain science!
Can you post any of your pix?
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
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Dunno if it will help or not, but here’s the company I used to work for. I think some of these may have been mine, but it’s been since 2007 so they like have all new pix. Regardless, the idea is the same whether using glass or acrylic:
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
Suggestions:
Search the web for photos of damaged RC cars, then make those “changes” to your real one.
Search for online tutorials for “distressing,” “aging,” or “damaging” effects with photoshop.
Start playing with it until you get it.Save early. Save often.
Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
Illustrator can be tricky at times. Make sure the correct object is selected (make sure you have the fill not the stroke – that kind of thing). To be absolutely sure, check the Appearances palette to be sure the right bits are set to the right opacity.
Save early. Save often.
Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
Most likely a Yosemite thing. I just upgraded and I’m having issues and now I’m getting all these little notices and weird errors, though not what you are seeing. Beyond that, check adobe’s site. I’m sure this isn’t the first time it’s happened.
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Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
1. More light. No matter how sensitive the sensor is, they all still need more light. The T3i sensor is barely a nudge up from the T2i which is similar to the 7D. I try to never use ISO lower than 800 or 1600 on rare instances because the gain is absurd. The T3i is not a great low-light camera.
2. Prime lenses will usually have better DOF than zooms. I just bought a Canon F2.5 50mm macro lens that performs like a 1.8 lens for far less money ($300). Besides, you don’t usually want to push your lens that far open – if you are pushing your lens as wide as it will go, you need more light – once you hit wide open, you no longer have any room to play and cranking up ISO just presents more problems. Try to stay within f8-11 as much as possible for your lens’ best performance (that range is where they are usually designed for).
3. More light. Steadier camera. Better composition. Learn to take better pictures: plugins, attachments, filters, etc. won’t help a badly exposed or composed picture. Get it right in camera and you don’t need those things. That said, I use the following tools all the time:
CINESTYLE “flat” picture style. Free. Easy to use. Set it up as one of your “User” picture styles on your camera. It was designed for DSLR cinematography, but it works great for photos. It “flattens” the contrast in an image which makes it look really muddy with no detail, but you can then add back the Cinestyle S-curve or use a different one if you want and then bring back contrast where you want it. Not for those new to color management, it can be a pain to make it work, but it can also bring out detail in highlight and shadow areas and it’s much easier to get fine-tuned images.
MAGIC LANTERN. While the big news is that its a hack that will allow the new 5D MK III to output RAW, it has some absolutely incredible features for the t3i and other Canons. The list of features is extensive, but you can add photo and video tools normally reserved for high-end equipment for free. If you don’t like it, just pull the memory card out when you power down and drop in a new card without ML installed and it goes away. Instantly. Again, not for those who aren’t comfy with installing something that can void the warrantee (mine already expired so who cares?) and potentially turn your camera into a brick. While it’s a possible, it’s also not real likely and while I have had issues with the software from time to time, reinstalling an update usually fixes it.
Save early. Save often.
Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293