Forum Replies Created

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  • Jonathan Ziegler

    January 23, 2013 at 3:26 pm in reply to: 3D editing – simple problem!

    Here’s a question: can you remove those parts of the file in something like Sketchup, first? Sketchup supports OBJ files and its free.

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    Jonathan Ziegler

    http://www.electrictiger.com
    520-360-8293

  • Jonathan Ziegler

    January 17, 2013 at 9:28 pm in reply to: Text bleeding into layer with a different color

    I’m with Bill, it’s easier to separate the layers. My steps:

    Create a new file, white background (that’s what I did, but the background doesn’t matter for this one).

    Create the “shape” on its own layer using the rounded rectangle tool (I set the color to black).

    Create the type on the next layer (black type).

    Duplicate the shape and move the duplicate above the type layer. Change color to white. Right click the top shape layer in the layers palette and choose “Create Clipping mask.” (or option-click between text and top shape layers).

    You can also link the top and bottom shape layers so you can move both around.

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    Jonathan Ziegler

    http://www.electrictiger.com
    520-360-8293

  • Jonathan Ziegler

    January 16, 2013 at 7:15 pm in reply to: Standarize for variation in light between photos

    Egads. I see your dilemma. I have 2 suggestions:

    1) since the photos thus far have been shot on a variety of backgrounds and none of them are plain white for the camera (they look white, but there are subtle color variations that adjust the colors slightly so correction is difficult) or calibrated for white balance or exposure, I would use the auto correct feature in Photoshop Raw for each image. You may get some weird results and you will have to play with your pix. This may take some time. You can use levels to balance the histogram, but I’m not sure how to make this an action. You may wind up sacrificing some quality, contrast, or other factors to get the right exposure.

    2) shoot the rest of your pictures by first calibrating your white balance, use some type of standard manual setup – write it down so you don’t forget, then use the same lighting – may want to get a ring flash for these types of photos. Using the same flash every time qualifies as standardized lighting and will make calibration easier. Get a small white/grey balance card. I have a small lastolite one I got on Amazon that rolls up like a car visor for really cheap or you can use another sort of “standardized” white balance card.

    If anyone else wants to chime in who has done this, it would be good. 🙂

    Save early. Save often.

    Jonathan Ziegler

    http://www.electrictiger.com
    520-360-8293

  • Jonathan Ziegler

    January 12, 2013 at 4:35 pm in reply to: Does anybody know what this look is called?

    Flat shooting is meant to help with crushed blacks or blown out whites in your shots. For the video shown, it looks like they may also have done some post processing, but I didn’t watch the whole video. The idea is you get more stops (Cinestyle claims to be able to get up to 11 stops versus the usual 8 stops of exposure in a shot) whicdh basically means your bringing detail back to shadow and highlight, BUT you sacrifice contrast which you add back in post. You are also supposed to have a broader range with which to work in post for various unique looks.

    You can use the “Prolost” version (https://prolost.com/flat) – I use the Cinestyle flat shooting mode from Technicolor (search for cinestyle flat and you’ll find it) as well as Magic Lantern. Flat, no contrast shooting isn’t restricted to Canons, Cinestyle, or ML, though. You can set it up in your camera – just drop your contrast down to “0” and expose your shot like normal. It will come out looking flat.

    Save early. Save often.

    Jonathan Ziegler

    http://www.electrictiger.com
    520-360-8293

  • I’m not sure where they are saved, but you can save them individually in the gradient editor using the Save button. I think they’re saved in the preferences as a holdover from previous days. Other then that, there’s Applications >> PS3 >> Presets >> Gradients (for mac, not sure about pc).

    Save early. Save often.

    Jonathan Ziegler

    http://www.electrictiger.com
    520-360-8293

  • Jonathan Ziegler

    January 5, 2013 at 6:35 pm in reply to: Add Rainbow Anodizing to Metal

    Easiest way is to create a “map” of the rainbow coloring you want to add and put that in a new layer on top, mask out the areas you don’t want to have rainbow, likely set the blend to “color” and then vary the opacity.

    You can make a bubbly rainbow pattern with a huge variety of tools – render clouds, add a rainbow gradient map, use ripple, glass or some other distortion, or swirl or what have you, etc.

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    Jonathan Ziegler

    http://www.electrictiger.com
    520-360-8293

  • Jonathan Ziegler

    December 31, 2012 at 4:32 pm in reply to: Smooth drawing lines with Wacom Intous

    You may have your lines set too hard with no anti-aliasing. Also, try just using the default Photoshop 5x7x300dpi. I have a Wacom tablet and I use it for PS, Painter, Illustrator, and a few other apps. When you set up your brushes and such, you may need to tell it what to do with pressure (ie: pressure on the pen varies size, opacity, etc.).

    Please send samples so we can all be wrong. When you send a sample, please include brush and image details.

    Save early. Save often.

    Jonathan Ziegler

    http://www.electrictiger.com
    520-360-8293

  • Hey there, DSLRs don’t add time code that I know of. You have to add it yourself. As for the file format, the Canon DSLRs basically run a modified AVCHD codec (this was the Canon rep who told me this, but I’m no expert) – so you have an h.264/mp4 combo in a .mov file format, but the original files run something like 50MBps (versus a max of 25MBps with AVCHD codec) or they do from my camera. So, basically, think slightly higher res Blu-Ray files (or AVCHD if that helps). You can get better quality data rates with Magic Lantern on a compatible Canon, but I digress.

    Save early. Save often.

    Jonathan Ziegler

    http://www.electrictiger.com
    520-360-8293

  • I may not be the person to listen to, but some things that work or me:

    1) plan. The more time spent planning, the less money spent on production
    2) focus on one thing at a time, but cultivate other options. While you’re shooting a commercial and you have that whole crew together, try shooting some stock or a self-promo shot or improve on the last shot. I now shoot stock photo and video and now I’m getting audio and sound effects for stock.
    3) the only constant is change. Since I started doing this for real (moving from hobby to pro), the business has changed. It will keep changing
    4) dive into the DIY film community – lots of great, inexpensive solutions to often pricey equipment and practical solutions for numerous situations. Start contributing to help build clout.
    5) cultivate professional relationships locally. You never know when you will need a new shooter or assistant. Also, the others in your field are your friends and resources – need to borrow something and so-and-so has it? Great being em into the project or borrow their equipment.
    6) dont be penny wise and pound foolish. That mean saving by not buying the little stuff (which really adds up quickly), but then buying expensive equipment or having to have the latest equipment. Remember, last years must-have item is often holding down the dumpster pile a year or 2 later.
    7) protect yourself: hire a lawyer – before you spent any money on equipment, supplies, etc, have a lawyer put together your business (be it an LLC, corporation, or partnership) and get legal with your state. Get licenses, model, property, and other releases, agreements, accounting, etc all straightened out before doing business. The money you save over the long run will be immeasurable.

    I have more, but that’s enough for now!

    Save early. Save often.

    Jonathan Ziegler

    http://www.electrictiger.com
    520-360-8293

  • Your best bet is to create your graphics on the HD broadcast template set to transparent background and export as a PNG file. PNGs preserve transparency so you don’t need an alpha.

    Save early. Save often.

    Jonathan Ziegler

    http://www.electrictiger.com
    520-360-8293

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