Jonathan Ziegler
Forum Replies Created
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I’m a big fan of both Adobe’s and Apple’s video offerings. You can use Apple’s Final Cut Pro or Motion (mac only) and Adobe’s After Effects or Premiere. If you’re on a PC, you can use Vegas from Sony, too. There’s also Avid and a host of other, smaller apps. I’ve even used Kinemac. You can make LTs with Photoshop, too, but I find the interface a bit clunky for animation – I prefer After Effects, Motion or FCP for various things. I think its more important to find one with a solid workflow you can adjust to – most will bog you down with technical terms so be ready. So, grab some trial versions and give it a whirl.
Save early. Save often.
Jonathan Ziegler
http://www.electrictiger.com
520-360-8293 -
No time wasted. I love playing in Photoshop. 😉
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
From what you are describing, yes, it used to always be that way. Its that way on my CS3. As for all the functions:
CTRL+SPACE+Left Click – for me, this zooms in just fine. If you don’t want the window to change sizes while you zoom in or out, this is what you use and ALT+CTRL+SPACE+Click for zoom out (I’m on a mac, don’t remember if Alt is correct on Windows). When the image is zoomed smaller than the size of the window, ALT+CTRL+SPACE+Click will keep the window the same size, but the image will center as soon as its smaller than the actual window. It’s always been like that, too. Then again, even after using Photoshop for this long, I keep learning new things.
Once the window is centered and zoomed out, nope, you can’t move it with SPACEBAR+Click-Drag. It never has for me. Let me know if you come up with something. I can move the window around by the titlebar of the window. You can move the window around with the Navigator if its zoomed past the window boundaries.
Can you send a screen shot of what you are referring to?
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Hmmm, tough one. First, of course, either clean your sensor or send it off to be done as this will get rapidly tedious and worse over time – eventually making your camera unusable.
First off, FIND all your spots. This is a pretty good article: https://photographylife.com/how-to-spot-dust-on-your-dslr-sensor
2 ways:
1) create the spot fix as a development setting in camera raw (using ONLY the spot fixes), load your pix directly in camera raw and then apply the pre-made spot fix (use a sample image from the above article to try creating one). Remove spots that aren’t needed. Voila!
2) Make an action in Photoshop – basically, open a new image, start recording, place your spot heals, stop recording. When you open a new image, just apply the action. This will require every image to be the same size, of course (for example, my pix out of my camera are 5184 x 3448 so any corrections for photos would have to be that exact size).
I think the better way is the development setting in Camera Raw/Bridge.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Sounds about right, but varying the ISO will also increase and decrease gain which can make undesirable static in the finished image. I think your best bet is to set it to a static ISO – the lowest one 100? – then vary the shutter speed from there. Using a wide lens with a medium f-stop (say f8-11 or higher) focused at infinity should do the trick. Use a cable release or the timer to avoid shaking the camera. You could have exposures up to 30 seconds or more at night so be ready.
Good luck! Post results if you can. 🙂
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Well, you could use multiple pictures to do a sort of HDR I suppose for each night or day shot or do a small series of exposures on the tiny details of an image, but it sounds like a lot of effort for a relatively small quality improvement.
What I would do:
mount your camera on a sturdy tripod and compose your image. Take a ton of photos from morning through night – all from the same position, focal length, etc. Vary your ISO, F-stop, and shutter speed, but nothing else.
Find your best pix. Compose for HDR if you’ve bracketed exposures (or done stack or rack focusing).
Bring them both into Photoshop in the same image. Add a mask (Layer >> Layer Mask >> Reveal All) to the top image. Click the layer mask and switch to the gradient tool. Get a nice, plain, white to black gradient. Start playing with the gradient to get a good mix. Use the eraser, brush, and whatever other tools you like to get the right mix between the front and back images.
You may find you have to tweak parts from one image to the next. During your initial exposure, try exposing for very specific areas, make notes about what’s exposed for where and include them in Photoshop.
I’d say, experiment with it. After all, it’s school and you should be failing in school. If you’re not failing, you’re not learning!
Save early. Save often.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
The guy who does the image you posted simply combines the 2 images in photoshop. Not sure about thousands or why you would need thousands (please feel free to post), but the photos are not time lapse, but long exposures using a camera in a fixed position, then combine the 2 images in photoshop (since the camera was fixed, you don’t have to spend a lot of time lining the 2 up) and make a mask for the top one and use a gradient to make the mask so you get a long, slow combine of images.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Well, you can move the zero/origin point of the ruler and grid on any image by simply dragging the upper-left corner to where you want the new origin to be in the image itself. When you drag the origin into the image, it will give you a little crosshairs which you can use to find your new place (you can use guide lines to set these points, too). If you have dragged the origin out and want to reset, just double-click the upper-left corner and it will reset.
Forgot to mention: you must have rulers (command-R or View >> Rulers) turned on.
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
I’ve done it several times. Whenever you do a File >> Save As, you have the option of including the color profile or not. I will deselect this anytime I create images for the web (most browsers ignore color profiles anyway so its wasted data) and I usually forget to reselect it later. 😉
Glad it worked. 🙂
-Jonathan
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293 -
Okay, when you record the action, open your image with the text first, then copy the text, then open the file on which you will paste, and then record your action, and then paste.
Lemme know how it works. 🙂
-Jonathan
Jonathan Ziegler
https://www.electrictiger.com/
520-360-8293